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CEG\'er
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i usualy do both, mostly double clutch into 3rd and use engine and breaks to slow it till its close to idle then i put in clutch or take it out of gear. My dad told me when you are engine breaking you are getting as good or better gas milage as idle. Also the only time i dont engine break is in snowy weather because it can lock the tires up and thats not good.
Matt
-2001 Mustang GT
-99 contour se sport mtx v6 (old car)
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i have a habit of coasting in neutral....then again if you seen me drive it would make you go crazy!
sometimes i shift 1-3-5 or start in first, wind it out then shift to 5th
i have no set method of driving
the reason for being like this.....i didnt have anyone teach me to drive stick. i taught myself on my car with a 3L, torsen, spec stage 3, and a spec flywheel, talk about a good starter car eh?  i didnt have a parent teach me to where i had to drive "normal" and i didnt have a slow beater either. i never had anyone to form me into a habit or style of driving. do to the nature of my car is why i drive totally random and crazy
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
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offtopic:
1-3-5, and 1-5 is REALLY hard on the synchros if you aren't PERFECTLY rev-matching when you shift.
/offtopic
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,639
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Originally posted by mvr:
i usualy do both, mostly double clutch into 3rd and use engine and breaks to slow it till its close to idle then i put in clutch or take it out of gear. My dad told me when you are engine breaking you are getting as good or better gas milage as idle. Also the only time i dont engine break is in snowy weather because it can lock the tires up and thats not good.
i actually do the opposite for winter. i thought the whole point was the control that an mtx will give u. i'd rather go down a snowy hill in 2nd or 3rd and let the engine get me down the hill at a more controlled constant speed rather than trying to brake the whole way down and hope to not brake too much to cause the tires to lose grip and slide.
i usually brake to a stop in gear then when i'm kinda close i pop it into neutral. so some of u guys will sit at a light with the car in gear holding the clutch down? hope u dont get a tired foot holding the clutch pedal and then let the car lunge forward into the car in front of u after your foot pops up.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Posts: 7,100
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its an SVT clutch, not a Corvetter Racing clutch, etc.
It isn't like its HARD to hold down.
MY 65 Chevy flareside had a clutch so hard to press that I, and my sister (when I was younger, before it was handed down to me) stepped on it, and WE went UP. You LITERALLY had to hold the steering wheel, and pull yourself downwards (Even as a grown man..) to get it down.
Once down it was fine.. but that halfway point was like trying to hold a compound bow halfway pulled back! Talk about a quivering leg! (God forbid you get stuck on a hill!)
edit:
8inch steering wheel, and no PS, either.
All out drag machine, but not much else!
Passed anything but a gas station. (about 3mpg, or less, with a 10 gallon tank behind the seat)
Caddy 472, Dual Holley 850 double pumpers, et al.
/EDIT
Ray
Last edited by Ray; 06/14/05 03:44 AM.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,974
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I rev match and heel-toe when I downshift, I don't like putting the car in neutral I like to have it in gear so I can just accelerate if I have to. The only time I really let the car coast in neutral is if I'm in a residencial zone and coming to a stop at a stop sign since the speeds are so low in a residencial zone.
Aaron
AKA NVS SVT
98.5 Silver/Blue SVT#4553
Yeah it's modded
98 T-Red/Blue SVT Contour Totaled 06/05/06
03 3L,VCN 2000,CAT Cams,MSDS Headers w/Y-Pipe,XCal2 and lots more
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Originally posted by Big Jim:
Originally posted by Christian:
Originally posted by Big Jim:
On decel, the engine is not driving the wheels. It is adding resistance and as such is actually assisting the brakes. Depending on conditions, this may not be significant, or it can be very significant.
But surely, unless you a braking extremely softly, when applying braking power you are working against power sent from the engine to the transmission, even though that power is dropping it is still there. I can understand it assisting in slow braking but in fast braking, especially emergency braking, clutch in is best as there is no power being sent from the engine.
At least this is the way I see it in my mind, the physics of this makes sense to me.
Once you lift your foot off the gas pedal, the power generated from the engine turns from propelling the car (positive power) to slowing the car (negative power). Surely you can feel that as you lift the throttle. While this is happening, the engine is assisting braking all the way down to engine idle.
Okay, I may be a little slow here on this one 
If the engine is still producing power then even if that is less than the power required to propel the car at the same speed (hence engine braking), would that power still not be put to the wheels (even if it is less than required for propulsion) meaning that when you brake ... you are braking not only the velocity/momentum of the vehicle but also the revolutions of the engine ... whereas if you brake clutch in/in neutral you are braking against purely the velocity/momentum of the vehicle ... my understanding of physics, back from A-levels 15+ years ago, so it is a little shoddy!
I can picture this scenario ....
Say at 50mph you need 10% disc braking to stop in distance x, if you apply engine braking you would need only 5% (making up numbers here) as the engine braking allows for 5% braking power ... which is why we brake with engine engaged.
But I don't see this ...
If I want to perform an emergency stop (slam on brakes as kid jumped in road) ... my aim is to stop as quickly as possible. At this point I imagine that removing engine power from the scenario would reduce braking, as the engine is rotating it is producing power, which goes to the wheels which causes forwards momentum (even if it is less), which means I have to apply more braking force to the wheels ...
Sorry to turn this into a school lesson, just I don't quite get it. 
Cheers,
Christian./
1998.5 T-Red on Midnight Blue SVT
Build Number 5320 of 6535
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to make a quick stop(kid jumps infront of ya) put it in the lowest gear that u can and hit the brakes. DONT be goin 50mph and then o sh!t and brakes and put it in 1st no.not what im saying. . in my past experience ive dropped the gears and hit the brakes and it helped me slow down alot then just clutch in and hit the brakes...others will understand what im saying hopefully and explain it better
98 CSVT t-red
1737#
cf1 Cowl hood
Centerline Storms
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
WTB- Vortech S/C kit/ADC Turbo Kit
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 173
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CEG\'er
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well if im not mistaken when you are engine breaking in snow the engine could cause the tires to lock up. i would try to explane further but i would make myself look like an idiot. id rather take my chances with the antilock.
Matt
-2001 Mustang GT
-99 contour se sport mtx v6 (old car)
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i have no idea about the snow cuz it never snows in ga. or macon atleast. but i kno on dry pavement the brakes and using the engine helps you slow down as quick or quicker. ive been ther done that kinda thing.
98 CSVT t-red
1737#
cf1 Cowl hood
Centerline Storms
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
WTB- Vortech S/C kit/ADC Turbo Kit
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