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#1300592 06/14/05 05:00 AM
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I already have had a turbo installed. (custom kit I made)I have removed it for the engine's current break in period. I know that some people would have just rather left the turbo installed while breaking in the motor, but I wanted to make sure everything was seated properly before I started tuning. Besides, I had ordered the stage two cams and totally forgot about them (took about 3 months to ship them ) and wanted to see what they would do for a mildy modded motor. Of course the drop in compression isn't helping matters at all, But I had them and wanted to use them. Even with the drop in compression, they are a definite plus. But yes, I am reinstalling the turbo kit in a bit. Will also be running stock cams for the turbo use as the stage 2's are no good for turbo's. Tuning on a nice tight motor makes for a VERY small margin for error.


95 Contour, Custom EVO bodykit, 2.0l, PNP Focus head, Stage 2 cams, Je pistons, Eagle rods, 4in1header, 2.5" header back exhaust(complete stainless), D P nitrous, ram air intake, 10mm wires, flamethrower.
#1300593 06/14/05 09:34 AM
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piper cams in UK now do a set of cams for the zetec designed for turbo use, they tested them in fast ford mag comparing to the stock cams and got 12bhp gain and a better power curve

#1300594 06/14/05 03:14 PM
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Originally posted by ZetecNinja:
I don't believe so...I think that was stock block not bottom end.

Also why the drop in compression if you're running nitrous? Are you planning on a turbo install?




yes...block is cast iron no??


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
#1300595 06/14/05 10:27 PM
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Yes, bottom is cast iron.

#1300596 06/15/05 07:40 AM
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The block is paper thin though and easily holed. Once a rod snaps, it's all over, and the rods are weaker than the block. That being said, if deto is kept in check with either a cool enough air charge and good fueling and timing, or/and high octane fuel, stock rods and pistons can do around 300whp.

I don't know the differences with early model pistons vs new model pistons though. The V6s had weak ring lands in pre-2000 year models causing them to fail past 250whp or so, but that was all on pump fuel, don't know if they tried racing gas. But 2000+ models were good to around 270whp or so. All my zetec experience is with 2000+ year models and I don't know how the rings compare with the V6s.


2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar 200whp & 210wtq at 9psi 254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
#1300597 06/17/05 01:39 AM
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Originally posted by Seawulf:
The block is paper thin though and easily holed. Once a rod snaps, it's all over, and the rods are weaker than the block. That being said, if deto is kept in check with either a cool enough air charge and good fueling and timing, or/and high octane fuel, stock rods and pistons can do around 300whp.







Maybe for a dyno queen? I see 300whp on stock internals not lasting very long on daily to extreme load. Even if properly tuned.

#1300598 06/17/05 10:43 PM
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Yeah, the one guy who did 300whp on 91 octane said it probably wouldn't last long. He has been runing on 250whp for over 2 years though.

The first guy who did 300whp on a stock block, did it with race gas and drove for over 3000mi(all on race gas) before deciding to build the block up.

I wouldn't run that much every day, but if you had 220whp or so then put a 50shot of nitrous on it at the track occasionally(on race gas of course) it should be fine.


2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar 200whp & 210wtq at 9psi 254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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