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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
Check your vacuum tubing on top of the EGR (silver UFO Looking metal circle.) There should be a plastic tubing with a rubber elbox shaped boot plugged on to the top of a nipple. Make sure that isn't cracked, broken, missing, etc.
(BE CAREFUL, the tubing will be VERY BRITTLE from age)
If that is fine, you need to search for how to clean the DPFE, and then how to clean out the "EGR passages" next to the TB
That should clear your 420 and (I am venturing) your 0133.. the 133 is a lean code.. 420 is your egr not working. (normally.. your egr not working will cause you to run lean, if the tubing is cracked, etc. a two-fer!)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
Man, I am so sorry...
I amswered that post at 3:30 after being aroused by a newborn crying!.. sorry..
the 420 is NOT the EGR.. it is "catalyst below efficiency"
Either way.. both codes point to a lean condition. still check for leaks around any vacuum tubes, gaskets (tb, EGR, IAC, UIM, LIM, etc) spray throttle body cleaner towards different areas of the car while it is running, and if it stumbles or stalls that is your culprit area! (the tb cleaner will make the car still when it gets sucked in to microscopic cracks.. avoid the air filter, obviously..)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
Before you set off on fixing your engine codes you should get to the bottom of the blinking OD light. This is the big ticket item and is usually mechanical not electrical (sensor) related.
1744 TC slip is the most common failure but any slippage will cause the OD light to flash.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 60
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 60 |
i dont understand what you mean by slippage. what happens when the engine or whatever slips? and ray, im not use to all these terms, can you say what they are instead of using short-hand terms please... thanks guys
1997 Contour LX (With 2.5L V6 Duratech)
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3 |
Hello everyone. I am new to this site. I found it after numberous searches for my problem. I too, have a blinking OD light and CEL display, with hard shifts after going over 65 mph. I was hoping for an easy answer, but have noticed your previous postings to anthony's_ford and am concerned that my problem will never be truly resolved. Is this repair very expensive and is it recommended to go to a Ford dealer, instead of just any mechanic? I was hopeful when I read about it possibly being sensor related, until I read further that it is most likely mechanical in origin. Can you help me? Also, will a diagnostic truly reveal the problem, or am I just wasting my time and $$$ ?
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3 |
Hi Merc....let me ask you.....is a code scan something that I would have done with a diagnostic? How do I go about making sure that I get this particular scan performed? Is it true that I may be causing more damage by driving at highway speeds? I drive 34 miles a day back/forth to work @ speeds up to 70 mph, which does cause my OD light to blink and my CEL to display, then I get the hard shift, as there tends to be stop and go traffic. Does this mean I need a transmission job done, or is it simpler than I am imagining? Sorry for all the questions, but I had a Mazda 626 LX a few years ago, where this same thing happened, and eventualy I had to junk it, because the transmission got so bad. I have a sickening feeling of deja vu.
FYI: I had the timing belt & fuel filter changed 6 months ago and also, over the weekend, had my overflow gasket replaced and had a tune-up...and STILL am getting the CEL.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
A very common problem with the CD4E transmission is the valve that controls the torque converter lock up wares out. This causes slippage and heat build up when driving on the Hwy. When slippage and/or heat is detected, the PCM commands the transmission into limp home mode. This causes hard â??bangâ? shifting. Limp home mode is reset with cycling of the ignition.
If you have the tools and are so inclined this can be fixed (as long as you do it soon). It will lead to complete failure and a tow truck if you keep driving it.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3 |
OH MY GOD!
So I gather that this IS an expensive fix for the non-mechanically inclined person (like myself). How much of a dent (or should I say chasm)in my wallet are we talking about here? I still owe 7 G's on my car! (yeah, no warranties, bought at a tent sale).
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