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#1278830 05/16/05 04:52 PM
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OK, first off, when I depress my clutch pedal it makes a buzzing/whirring noise, and the pitch of this noise decreases linearly as the engine RPM's decrease, and the noise ceases when I release the clutch pedal. I took it to Auto Zone and the guy said it was either my "throwout bearing" or my "pilot bearing". Would this be accurate?

Also he said that since it had the original clutch after 100,000 miles (and the previous owner shifted and clutched pretty violently I think), it was about time to get that replaced too, and I could save a bit on labor if I got them done at the same time.

I've had my eye on the Spec clutches for awhile... I was thinking of a Spec Stage III.. would this be sufficient for a car with a tuner chip? Or is that just total overkill and a waste of money?

What's the advantage of having a Stage II as opposed to a Stage III?

#1278831 05/16/05 04:54 PM
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If your car is even close to stock, the Stage I is sufficent, the II or III will be overkill.


Ryan Trollin!
#1278832 05/16/05 05:17 PM
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Well, I kinda want some bragging rights, so I'll shoot for a Stage II. That'll also leave room for later performance mods.

Also, is there anything else I should have the mechanic check out while he's poking aroud in the clutch area so I can avoid a later visit for somethingthat could have been replaced as preventative maintenance? Master or slave cylinder? Solenoids (whatever those are)?

#1278833 05/16/05 05:28 PM
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1) LSD (Quaife or Torsen)
2) Post Y2K Tranny parts (see sticky)


Unless you go FI you really do not need to go the II or III. Greg has run mid 13s on his Stage I+ with no clutch issues at all. If you have money to burn though, go for it.


Ryan Trollin!
#1278834 05/16/05 05:43 PM
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I always remember reading that the Stage II was junk. Either the Stage I or III are good.

Isn't the Stage II made of Kevlar which is the same as stock Ford and wears quicker?

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1278835 05/16/05 05:44 PM
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Originally posted by Savior:
Well, I kinda want some bragging rights, so I'll shoot for a Stage II.



That's not a smart way to pick out parts.

The Stage 2 is kevlar so it is much more prone to glazing, slipping, and also has a lower COF. (meaning it slips more) It will also not last as long.
The only reason it has a higher "rating" is that the kevlar itself is a stronger material then organic metallic. However it's not like you are going to hook up enough to put that much brute shock on the disc. Even if you did the mere 10% difference in wheel rating is miniscule in the grand scheme of things.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#1278836 05/16/05 08:05 PM
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take it from me, stay away from the spec stage 2. It was good while it lasted...but i don't have $$$ to swap clutches every 2 years.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
#1278837 05/17/05 02:22 AM
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*gets visions of people stuck in rush hour traffic with a racing clutch* *giggles*


97 Zetec MTX Sport Mk1 Mondeo Morettes & Clear corners Full SVT kit w/ Molded Mirko Splitter, Carbon Fibre Hood Ground Control coilovers w/ Koni adjustables, BAT anti roll bar Pics of my rides in my profile! Rally drivers do it sideways......
#1278838 05/17/05 10:14 PM
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The Stage I is more than enough for a stock, or even highly modifed 2.5L. Hell, I've got a stage I with my 3.0L, and will be spraying a 75-100 shot on top of that. The clutch has held up awesome to the 28k miles of abuse I've given it. Bragging rights? Save yourself some money and get the stage I, then spend a little more and put the bottle on the car. You'll get some bragging rights there!

Mark


2000 Black CSVT 3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq

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