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c150L Offline OP
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I hope I didn't post this yet.

So I had Autozone scan my 96 Zetec. He said the code he read (CEL is on) O2 sensor lean, Bank 1, 2nd sensor. 2 questions.

Is there a code number for that? He punched in the year, make and model into his scan tool, so it may have just given him the text pertaining to the code.

Do you think just changing that sensor with a new one would take care of the CEL problems?

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Firstly the lower aka second sensor CAN NOT throw a lean code. It has to be an upper sensor.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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I do have a generic OBD II code listing, don't know how it pertains to the Countour, but code P0137 says "O2 circuitm low voltage (cylinder bank no 1, sensor no 2)". Might that be what he meant? I though low voltage would be a lean condition for an O2 sensor. I too though it odd about the sensor after the cat converter reading lean. But then it should be, shouldn't it. The cat converter burns the engines unburned gasses, does it not?

I hate to dump 60 bux for that O2 sensor if my milage would not improve AND perhaps I might still have the CEL on.

All this electronic crap. What have we gained? A Contour that gets 24mpg? My Road Runner, when I had the 383 (V8)converted and running on 4 cyl, got that on the hyway. No wonder I gave up auto wrenchin, unless absolutely necesisary. I am very much into computers and electronics but this automtoive electronic thing controls us as much as our vehicals.

Last edited by c150L; 04/29/05 05:35 PM.
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Dang it. I'm in Duratech maint section. I should have posted in Zetec maint.

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IF there is a circuit malfunction it does NOT mean lean. It means the O2 is fried. And seeing as it it Bank 1 Sensor 2, it's indeed the lower one that's done.

don't assume that O2 codes mean lean/rich or worn out.

IT's best to post the code and let us OG's decipher it than come to a guessed conclusion like you did.

I would swap out the lower O2, but I would buy it (234-4609) from sparkplugs.com for $45!

http://sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1362226&mfid=3


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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I don't remember assuming anything. I asked what the code number was for the statment the Autozone guy told me. "Bank 1, sensor 2 lean".

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That's why you NEVER trust the dufus at Autozone. Just get the CODE not his stupid advice. They ALWAYS tell you "Yep you need a new O2 sensor!" Most of the time it's BS, but at least he sells you a $60 part. In this case it isn't lean BUT your O@ is indeed on the fritz.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
That's why you NEVER trust the dufus at Autozone. Just get the CODE not his stupid advice. They ALWAYS tell you "Yep you need a new O2 sensor!" Most of the time it's BS, but at least he sells you a $60 part. In this case it isn't lean BUT your O@ is indeed on the fritz.




Yeah, they pulled the same [censored] on me, too. Went there to clear the code, guy siad I needed a new 02 sensor. O2 just got wet, blew it out, cleaned the connector, good as new... Morons.


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So, I went to AutoZone due to suggestions different ones on this board have made, had my car scanned, now I should not beleive them? (Never been in an AZ before yesterday.)I did have a blown HG, O2 would have got wet from that. Batt was disconnected, but the CEL came back on shortly after I restarted the engine after HG replacement.

Perhaps I should disconnet the batt again to clear the CEL and stored info to see if it comes back again. After coming back from AZ, I did check and clean in and around the connections for that sensor. I wonder if that CEL would normally turn itself back off W/O having to clear the code(s) out, if the problem goes away on it's own or from something one might have taken care of?

What might be the correct voltage that O2 sensor would be putting out if it were functioning properly? Maybe I could artificially induce that voltage, after clearing the CEL codes and see if the CEL comes back with another code if it comes back on.

Did I mention how much I hate this new technology junk? (Not my Contour, I like that. All these sensors and devices that cause CELs and the time and expense to remedy. Jeepers! I used to rebuild and install engines faster than one can take care of CEL problems. Often cheaper too!

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Originally posted by c150L:
So, I went to AutoZone due to suggestions different ones on this board have made, had my car scanned, now I should not beleive them?




That's not what Stazi's saying. When getting the code scanned, always get the code number itself, and don't rely on their interpretation of the code. They're trying to sell you things. With the actual code you can post here and let people like Stazi, who know way more about these cars than the people at AZ ever could (with one major exception ), give you a diagnosis. I've heard of AZ employees giving a diagnosis that had absolutely nothing to do with the part that had actually failed.

Where in WI are you? I have a laptop with OBD-2 scanning software. If you're in the Milw. metro area I'd be happy to scan your car whenever you need it. I'm not trying to sell you things.


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