Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting What is this stuff?

Replacing the axle isn't that expensive. I paid $110+tax canadian .... but, I'll put a vote in for a bad boot. Honelstly, for the effort you're going to go through to replace the boot, may as well get the axle. Same damned job, you get a new boot an piece of mind that you won't have to be doing it again in 6 months ...

OK, It's been awhile but I was under the car today changing tranny fluid and checked everything out again. I don't think there's anything wrong with the boot. I can't find a tear, hole or anything along those lines. However, the boot is a lot more flexible than the one on the driver's side (which is 100% clean). I think I may have screwed myself by not just changing it, but like I said, the boot doesn't appear to be damaged. However, when I drive there is a creaking noise coming from the general area of RF. I think it's the joint in there. I decided that I'll just replace it, but do I also need to replace the axle or anything else?

Just replace the CV joint on that side.

Should come in a long rectangular box and will be a shaft, with splines on either end, and a boot in the center.

Nothing else is replaced, with the exception of the axle nut (locking spindle nut, ~8.50 at a dealer, which is a one time use nut.. tighten the new one to 208ft/lbs!!!)


Ray

Ray I am getting ready to put my foot in my mouth here! I not trying to correct you but just asking, b/c I always heard that those axle nuts were good for 5 uses. Just what I've heard. If you buy an axle you get a new one anyway so its best to change it but i've always heard to just notch the stacked nut with a file each time you pull it off, til you get to 5.

Haha.. no worries..

The axle nut uses three stacked rings inside of a metal retainer.

Upon tightening this nut to the recommended 214Ft/lbs (208 is the generally accepted value here, however..) you are preloading that wheelbearing. The entire weight of the car is resting on that wheel bearing, and is only held upright by that nut.

It is possible that you MAY be able to re-use it. (notching it merely to keep tabs, I take it..) BUT:

The established replacement practice (Ford, CEG, major mechanics) is that its a one-time use nut, and should be replaced ANY time the load is removed from it. While I can't quote you specific instructions, nor link you to actual data on reasoning, I can only recommend what is safe, and accepted, pretty much industry wide. (Most shade tree mechanics not included, I am sure. Simply from lack of knowledge or understanding, really..)

At 8.50-ish, its a helluva lot cheaper than a new car, or a hospital bill...

So, while what you have heard MAY work, I certainly won't be one to advocate that action, and would be hardpressed to see anyone do the same. I will let you make that decision on your own, but you know where I, and the majority of any others, stand. :P

Ray

Thanks, I see what you are saying and your point is well taken. I think it was a Ford mechanic from my dealership that told me that.

Are these supposed to be replaced or repacked at a certain milage, or replaced?

Those?

Wheel bearings are replaced when they go bad (you can hear the distinctive buzzing, roaring sound at speed, and (normally) more pronouned when turning one direction, and less when turning the other.

When you DO replace them, you have to also replace the axle nut (as we were just discussing)..

Other than that, unless you were COMPLETELY anal about maintenanence (some are.. perhaps me... ) you don't have to stick to a schedule.

I end up replacing mine at 60-70K each time, fwiw.. (yes.. I'm anal..)


Ray

Sorry Ray. I mean the CV boot.

Boots should be replaced when they are ripped, torn, cracked, or missing. Other than that, as long as they are still sealed, and holding the grease, and the metal rings are still on tight, you shouldn't have to replace them.


Ray