Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance 2.0 Zetec DOHC pullies don't line up, new belt.

I'm new here, but have been searching info for a couple weeks now. Hoping someone can help me with a new timing belt issue.

Last weekend, my 2.0 contour Zetec over heated and appreaently blew the head gasket. I tore everything down for head removal, but when I got to removing the timing belt, it appeared that the intake cam was advanced about one tooth. Now, I'm putting the resurfaced head back on and when I lined up the cam with homemade tool on end of cam, the old belt did not seem to line up with the teeth on the 2 cam sprockets. My new belt came in today, so I just went down and sat that across the 2 cam sprockets and it appears the cam will not line up when I install the new belt either. With the cam line up tool in place, I would think that the belt would have minimal slack bwtween the 2 cam sprockets. It appears I am going to have 2 choices unless someone has other ideas. (I have to get this car together today, so bear in mind, I can not run out for more parts.

When I took the engine apart, it appeared the intake cam was about 1 tooth advanced. It now looks like it was about 3/4 tooth advanced. So, should I go with that setting at reassemble or should I allow the intake cam to go aprox 1/8-1/4 tooth retarded. I can not see how the 2 cam slots are going to stay lined up once the belt is installed and tensioned properly. (Perhaps that extra slack in the belt is supposed to be there when setting/tensioning the timing belts?

I don't know if your Zetec is VCT or non-VCT, but here's what I would suggest:

* Get the motor in the right position - cylinder 4 at TDC and the valves on that cylinder at valve overlap. I don't go by the mark on the crank pulley because (a) I can barely see it and (b) it isn't exactly correct on my car. Using a 5/8" socket, I think, and a screwdriver dropped into the spark plug hole in cylinder 4, rotate the crank pulley until the screwdriver as at its highest resting position.

* For the valves on cylinder 4 (that's the farthest from the timing best, BTW) to be at overlap, the cam lobes on that cylinder will be pointing at each other.

* Install your cam alignment tool.

* Leave the cam gear bolts slightly loose and go ahead and put on the belt.

* Verify that everything is still lined up (cylinder 4 at TDC, cam alignment tool is still in place)

* Tighten down the cam gear bolts. I'd do intake bolt first, then exhaust. (Use a Crescent wrench to grab onto the hexagon portion of each cam when you're doing this. If you don't and stress the cam too much from one end to the other you could damage it)

* Tighten down the belt tensioner.

* Remove your screwdriver from the cylinder and the cam alignment tool.

* Rotate the crank so that the cams turn two full revolutions. This will put you back in the position you started at.

* Verify your piston is still at TDC and your alignment tool will still fit.

I know using a screwdriver seems crazy, but it's a much better representation of where the piston is than that notch on the crank pulley. Also, if the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder when you are rotating the motor, be sure that your screwdriver is standing straight up. If it angles it can get caught in one of the valve recesses on top of the piston and get you hung up.

If you have VCT, you'll probably notice the exhaust cam will just sit there for a few degrees when you're rotating the motor. This blew my mind because when I would rotate the motor to verify everything, the exhaust cam would end up about 15-20 degrees off. I attempted to visually advance the cam so they would line up after the fact, but the car freaked out. DON'T DO THIS! Just line it up the first time and test it. Most likely the cams will not line up after you rotate the crank, but the car will compensate for this upon startup.

I hope this helped more than it confused

I use the screw driver trick to find TDC. Seems rather precise to me.

I do not believe it is VCT if that stands for variable cam timing.

You mentioned loosening the cam pullies. Do you mean to tell me that these pullies are not keyed in position on the cam shaft?

Thanks,
Dale

VCT is a '98 and up thing only. If you don't have it and you're setting your own timing, consider yourself lucky

My pulleys were NOT keyed and I don't think any Zetecs are. Just break the bolts loose a little (again use the Crescent wrench on the cam to support it) and the gear will rotate, making your job much easier.

It is a 96 Contour, 2.0 Zetec.

Cool! (I think.) Almost seems odd they are not keyed, but in this case, appears I can do something about this mis alignment.

Thanks again,
Dale

No problem....and GOOD LUCK!

Its soooo nice to have D back,
he always has suck inteligent/helpful posts.

Thanks Sleeper. This will sound gay, but that means a lot coming from you.

...and to think we all argued w/ your drag times when you joined the boards...I still have some of the PMs

Hey man! I have to thank you again for the quivk and precise info. I never would have imagined that those cam pullies were not keyed to the cams. Finished up about 1:45 am Sunday morning. The car startes and runs beeter that ever. (I only had the car 3 weeks before the HG blew. May have been going but not blown when I got it.)

Not sure if it was the cam timing deal or weakened compression, but the little 2.0 seems much snappier or responsive. Now with fingers crosed, I hope it holds up. A wek ago this last Saturday, when the HG went out, the engine got rather hot twice. I have not noticed any ill effects as of yet. Got about a hundred minle on it so far.

Thanks again,
Dale

Sounds like you did a good, clean job c150L. And it sounds like you know a lot about engine work, you will probably be able to put some very useful info into this site.