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Originally posted by Ziyad:
And what book is it that you cracked open? Looks handy to have around.




The ATSG rebuilder's guide to the light duty CD4E transaxle......

Bob


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Originally posted by Ra\/en:
Well, my TSS is original. Replacing this sounds like a good idea, after searching and finding that many people have had to replace it. So is this easy to replace?




I had exact same problem - but i traded the car. And i curious what is the real solution for it
I bought the updated TSS, it's not on ebay

check out this thread about Cougars tranny (*same as in contours) http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=14&threadid=70919

and this one:

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=257675&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

Last edited by Kirill; 05/12/05 04:16 PM.

Kirill 98.5 Silver Frost Contour SE Sport (powered by Duratec) traded for 01 Audi A6 2.7T in September 04. Some stuff for sale in classifiends: http://www.contour.org/classifieds/classifieds.php?t=1&c=1
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Kirill,

Are you saying that that ebay item is your's? OR are you saying that that one on ebay is not a true updated TSS? I am still having this problem only when I drive for a while at high speeds on the highway then get into town. I think I will just get the new TSS and install it.

Nick


98 Black Mystique LS Duratec V6 2.5L ATX K&N air filter, cleaned EGR, new Autolite double platinum plugs, magnacore wires, rebuit Sonnax valved VB, TSS, TPS. Mobil 1 5W-30
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Originally posted by Ra\/en:
Kirill,

Are you saying that that ebay item is your's? OR are you saying that that one on ebay is not a true updated TSS?




Sorry i wasn't clear. That item is mine - and this is updated TSS that i bought hoping that it will fix my problem (exact same as yours). But i traded the car and never tried it. So i really curious if that's the answer.

BTW, I got that problem when my car hit 100K.

Last edited by Kirill; 05/18/05 01:46 AM.

Kirill 98.5 Silver Frost Contour SE Sport (powered by Duratec) traded for 01 Audi A6 2.7T in September 04. Some stuff for sale in classifiends: http://www.contour.org/classifieds/classifieds.php?t=1&c=1
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I have another problem and I have not replaced anything yet and I am having a strange coolant loss problem now. The first time I noticed the coolant problem there was a big puddle of it under my car one day, after parking it to go into a store and set off the low coolant light. So when I got home I filled it up and waited to see what happened. Drove it the next day, and all was fine. The next day though, it did the same thing, leaked a huge amount and set off the low coolant light. And now I have had to fill it twice again since, because of this intermittent problem.

I am wondering if this could be resulted from the ECT sensor as well, that btrautman suggested to me to replace. If so, then I have found the true culprit. If you have any ideas please throw them at me. If this is not it then I need to find out what is causing the coolant problem and just replace the TSS.

Thanks,

Nick


98 Black Mystique LS Duratec V6 2.5L ATX K&N air filter, cleaned EGR, new Autolite double platinum plugs, magnacore wires, rebuit Sonnax valved VB, TSS, TPS. Mobil 1 5W-30
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Hi Raven, has your tranny problem been solved? I have exactly the same problem. I have replaced these:
1. TSS Sensor
2. ECT Sensor
3. MLP Sensor
4. ATF fluid
Am estimating how much more I need to spend to get it fixed. Thanks for your help.

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Ok guys, this summer I am bound and determined to figure out and fix this problem. I have already replaced the Valve Body (With New Sonnax Parts), I replaced the TSS, and TPS. That is all the further I got last summer. The winters are too cold too for me to work on my car. Anyways, my car is still doing the same thing as it has been. I do have new information though. I had an lube shop do my oil today and they saw that the bottom of the transmission was wet. So I have a little leak. Not big, because the level was fine. And it wasn't dripping. Also, The only code that I am getting now is the P1744. The transmission fluid was flushed and refilled 1 year ago and now it is brown. It isn't suppose to go bad that quickly is it? So I am thinking that this little leak and the quickness of the ATF turing brown would gather some more ideasa. I do not think that my problem is the ECT, but it could be the solenoid pack. Also, I did the driving test to see if the TCC is locked up, "By driving 50mph, then applying the brake lightly to see if the RPM goes up then back down." (I read one of Unisys Posts about that) Anyways, my RPM did not go up. What does that mean? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. Thanks guys, this problem sucks because it is so intermittent. And of course, on long trips, is when it loves to act up.



98 Black Mystique LS Duratec V6 2.5L ATX K&N air filter, cleaned EGR, new Autolite double platinum plugs, magnacore wires, rebuit Sonnax valved VB, TSS, TPS. Mobil 1 5W-30
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You really need a new TC and a cooler....and a flush.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I have the same problem and found out my transmission is going and would cost me $3000 CDN for a rebuilt Tranny. I came to notice when you exit the highway and come to a stop light, if you put the car in Neutual and shut the car off and start back up it will fix the problem for now. I am currently doing this until i can afford to get a new tranny.hopes this helps

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Originally posted by LGR Mystique:
I have the same problem and found out my transmission is going and would cost me $3000 CDN for a rebuilt Tranny. I came to notice when you exit the highway and come to a stop light, if you put the car in Neutual and shut the car off and start back up it will fix the problem for now. I am currently doing this until i can afford to get a new tranny.hopes this helps




I have the same symptoms. When the slamming occurs, I turn the car off for a split second and turn it on again, and the problem goes away... If this is leaky valves, then why does the problem go away by turning the ignition off for 0.5 second. Doesn't that indicate electrical issues that are the real cause (I don't doubt that the valves are no longer in good shape)???

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