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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by csc99svt: serious question here....could you not just take a lugnut and go to a local hardware store and buy new bolts....like a grade 8 or stainless...would that work? be cheaper too...
I think what your saying in this post is just going to a local hardware store and buy some same thread bolts that are longer. Theres no knurl on regular bolts like this. These bolts are pressed in for a reason.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Joined: Apr 2004
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NAPA 641-3131 or 641-2169. The 641-3131 has a knurl that is about 0.002" larger than stock. I believe the 641-2169 is a few thousandths less than stock. You will have to remove some material from the head in order to fit them onto the hub.
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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Joined: Feb 2004
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Originally posted by csc99svt: serious question here....could you not just take a lugnut and go to a local hardware store and buy new bolts....like a grade 8 or stainless...would that work? be cheaper too...
There's a ton to take into consideration with lug studs. Thread pitch, diameter, head type, and length. You'd be hard pressed to find what you need. =)
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE: I would have done that, but I only needed 13mm spacers and I think H&R have 15mm-16mm as a step up from 10 mm. I just had some custom ones made instead.
Ah, that makes sense. Yeah, they only make 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, and 30mm spacers for 4x108 -- but they all come with extended lug studs making it a bit easier.
Also, you can simply use an extra lug nut on the stud with an impact wrench to press these in with ease. Took about 3 minutes per side to do mine this way.
E1
1999 Cougar - Supercharged 3L
1992 Talon TSi - AWD Turbo
1992 Eclipse GSX - AWD Turbo
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by EternalOne: Originally posted by csc99svt: serious question here....could you not just take a lugnut and go to a local hardware store and buy new bolts....like a grade 8 or stainless...would that work? be cheaper too...
There's a ton to take into consideration with lug studs. Thread pitch, diameter, head type, and length. You'd be hard pressed to find what you need. =)
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE: I would have done that, but I only needed 13mm spacers and I think H&R have 15mm-16mm as a step up from 10 mm. I just had some custom ones made instead.
Ah, that makes sense. Yeah, they only make 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, and 30mm spacers for 4x108 -- but they all come with extended lug studs making it a bit easier.
Also, you can simply use an extra lug nut on the stud with an impact wrench to press these in with ease. Took about 3 minutes per side to do mine this way.
E1
i know how to find a bolt, i worked in hardware for 6+ years coming up in high school and some college....my question was serious cause i wanted to know for myself....i have never looked at the back of the wheel hub to see how the bolts are inserted into the hub and through the rotor...so i wanted if a hardware store item would work....what are studs closest to? hex, carriage, sqaure, i was just wanting to know...
--Chris--
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#1671 of #2760
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Joined: Sep 2000
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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I used Napa 641-3131 on my car. They're not too long that I can't take the spacers off as well if I want to.
98.5 SVT now gone ... new wheels = 2005 330i
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Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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I'm going to get some longer studs to fit my aftermarket wheels better. I found the NAPA and Dorman parts that are for the Mazdas - 52mm long. The problem is that they have a longer head. Will these fit my steelies? I need to have enough thread to get my nuts torqued down even when I have on the much thinner stock wheels.
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil: ... to get my nuts torqued down ...
Haven't had much sleep lately & that portion of a sentence made me laugh. Geez, time for bed, I'm old & tired...
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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