Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle Now to the tranny

Folks

Need some advice from the wise.

I have been going through my '97 tour section by section since I picked it up in October '04. Now I have come to the ATX with 127K on it. A full drop and power flush has been performed, driven with improved shifting and response for 1500 miles, then a Hayden Cooler (600 series)installed, and a drop and refill on fluid. Dropped fluid looked pretty good, still rose in color but fairly turbid (no metals).

I should say that at this time the shifts are fine and the trans feels plenty strong both at regular driving and when it gets romped at high speed, although at 70 plus mph, there "feels" to be an occasional "miss" which I believe may be TQ slip.

Car is now code free (780 miles)and has never thrown a tranny code, purchased with CEL lit from original owner whom I know. Stated it had been on for over a year and all Ford kept doing was replacing O2 sensors and clearing. (Fixed with Manifold, TB, EGR, PCV, and Diff sensor cleaning). I am building to serve primarily as a zippy daily driver (Suburban costs too much to fuel anymore).

I have researched the archives and it appears that the Trans-go shift kit and a new valve body may be all that is needed to assure longevity. I am not sure where I am at on HP, but have added KKM intake, SHO Y-pipe with HiFlo Cat, SVT exhaust w/o resonator. Still to go SVT TB, 3X UIM, and '00 SVT LIM, upgraded injectors, change out SVT mufflers to Magnaflows, chip.

Questions:

1.) Am I on the right track or have I missed something?

2.) How difficult is the CD4E jr kit and VB work w/o a pull?

3.) How accurate (I am a bit edgy about all the drilling, chamfering, etc)

4.) Is this something that is best performed by a reputable tranny shop?

5.) Is the cost of special tools vs labor a wash?

So far all the work has been in my garage, but I have never done any tran work, except for filter and vacuum booster on any car.

I appreciate your feedback.

Just going from memory (because I went through the same thought process last year), it's possible to sneak the VB out without pulling the engine/transmission. I think you have to remove the battery and battery tray, and fender liner, but the VB has enough clearance to come out like that. As far as the work itself, I'd definitely have a shop do it...reason being is LIABILITY. If you slip and gouge the thing, it's on you. If they do it, it's on THEM. I'd even consider buying a new/used VB and having the work done on it and swapping it for the existing one.

If your TC is slipping, the shift kit will make things worse ... it's time for a new TC.

Shameless plug I know, but I have a fully rebuilt CD4E for a V6 that I'm trying to help a friend sell: http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=6&threadid=119886

I did the rebuild myself ... check out the thread. Aside from the shiftkit, the valvebody was completely rebuilt using Sonnax valves.

It sounds like you will eventually have to rebuild your atx. With high mileage ATX, many times problems start after the power flush. Excessive clearance is now evident from particles being flushed out....

How often did the previous owner change the atx fluid. If the answer was never.....I think you will find you will shortly have a rebuild problem.....

I'm familar with FastCourgar's rebuild atx that is available. IMO you would be picking up an atx that is rebuilt far superior to what a typical tranny shop would do.....

Bob

If the TC is slipping (or any slippage for that matter) you will get a code.
Yes you can change the VB on a V6 without dropping the tranny.
You can change the TC by pulling the motor out the top and leaving the tranny in place.

The miss you are felling is likely engine related. You wouldnââ?¬â?¢t really ââ?¬Å?feel the TC slipping.

jeff

Not true.

If the torque convertor clutch is slipping you can feel a chatter or shudder. It is often descriped as feeling like momentarly running over bots dots or a warning track, usually on the 3-4 shift at about 40 mph.

This has been a reasonably common concern with the same trans when it is used in the Escape.

The main cause is tired fluid and usually it is cured with a thorough fluid flush. In the case of the Escapes built before late 03, there is also a PCM reflash to alter the trans shift strategy to improve the likelyhood this not returning.

I agree that what you are feeling at about 70 mph is not likely to be from the trans. Look for an engine miss, most likely an ignition miss from plugs or wires.

On top of all this advice, I would like to add that if you install the CD4Ejr Shift Correction Kit, you do not need to change your valve body - unless it is worn beyond repair. You can purchuse a rebuilt CD4E vb from www.axiom.com which has been rebuilt with Sonnax valves and all necessary corrective actions taken already. Here is a recent thread were I spoke with another memeber about them.

All Right!

I knew I could get some great feedback. Thanks for the input from all of you guys.

My Plan:

I will go back through the all the wires, plugs, etc and confirm we are good there.

I will order the TG kit and see if I can source a VB for the right price.

I will order the Sonnex valves.

Check to make sure the TSS is updated.

If all the above doesn't fly, then I will talk to FastCougar about the rblt tranny. At 1K, I can afford to try the above.

Like I said the tranny never really struggles, shifts well although Contour shift points are less than desirable.