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Joined: Mar 2005
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What is the best way to get air bubbles out of your cooling system??? I changed the thermostat and I cant get all the air bubbles out and its moving back to the red line again. I've already searched this and there wasnt much help. Any suggestions???
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2005
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CEG\'er
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im almost positive it has a bleeding valve on it... i may b wrong. 
edit:
put ur car over ur shoulder and pat it on its back till it burps 
Last edited by reallyBIGfuzzy; 04/06/05 03:23 PM.
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in theory you should be able to get it all out by turning heat to MAX and letting it run till it reaches the operating temp. sometimes you may have to do it twice.
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I had an air bubble in my cooling system when i changed my water pump to the metal impellar. It was in the sensor which made the low coolant light come on and stay on so i was kinda worried about it. I called ford and asked them the best way to go about getting it out. he told me to elevate the front end by ramps or something like that and letting the car run until the coolant level in the resivoir (dont think i spelled it right) dropped, then to refill whatever was lost. Just something to consider.
Silverfrost 99 SE Sport ATX
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Originally posted by reallyBIGfuzzy:
im almost positive it has a bleeding valve on it... i may b wrong.
edit:
put ur car over ur shoulder and pat it on its back till it burps
ok where might the bleeder valve be???? I didnt think there was one on the SVT's. and yeah i wish i could pat it and burp it. 
I've turned me heat on high and not getting much heat from it, which I've been told that i probably have an air pocket in my heater core and thats why no heat. i will try jaking it up and trying that method as well. with the temp rising, im wondering if the air bubble is right behind the thermostat and cant get out(should though) because its as if the thermo isnt letting coolant move through and cool down the engine. could be wrong though.
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Are you sure you don't have a broken water pump? It sounds like a slipping impeller to me...
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You don't need to jack up the front of the car, but it doesn't hurt.
Turn the heat to full. This takes some of the heat out of the coolant, and helps to keep the car from overheating during this process.
Pull off the rad cap.
Start her up.
The car will work the bubble out itself as the coolant flows. Have coolant mix on hand to top things up as the bubbles burst and the level drops.
This can take 20 minutes. Keep at it until you see no more bubbles.
Replace rad cap, and you should be good.
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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Originally posted by Phil Rohtla:
You don't need to jack up the front of the car, but it doesn't hurt.
Turn the heat to full. This takes some of the heat out of the coolant, and helps to keep the car from overheating during this process.
Pull off the rad cap.
Start her up.
The car will work the bubble out itself as the coolant flows. Have coolant mix on hand to top things up as the bubbles burst and the level drops.
This can take 20 minutes. Keep at it until you see no more bubbles.
Replace rad cap, and you should be good.
Heater is on from the get go. it ran for a good 20-30 min last nite and still got into the red. i had bubbles come out, and at one point the lower hose on the reservoir had what appeared to be steam coming up through it and into the tank (it was moving fast) and was getting steam through the top of the tank(cap off) then it started to burp loud and hard so i shut it off. waited about 3 min and looked at the tank and all the fluid went into the radiator/engine. filled it up and started it up again and it still got into the red after a little bit. just lost because i know its not this hard to fix this, just stumped. I hope its not a WP, and it does seem to be working fine, but i guess i wouldnt know until i took it off and checked it.
thanks for the suggestions, will try them when i get home in a couple hours.
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IIRC, the WP issue doesn't apply to your car, but it might not be a bad idea to get some more coolant and a new WP and do it all right.
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not sure what IIRC means but ok, yeah i've thought about getting one and just having it done so i dont have to deal with it later. 195 degrees is the recommended thermo i assume??? i see everyone putting 180 degrees thermos in their car, but i also heard rumor that it could affect performance, not sure if its true or not but just thought i would ask as well. i have a 195 thermo in there right now.
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