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Just one more question regarding the side marker install.

Is the Audi wiring harness (green and brown wires) absolutely necessary? If so what is the P/N? I called my local Audi dealer and he quoted me the same prices for the P/Ns listed in the HOWTO, but wanted $97 for the L wiring harness and $75 for the R side!! If he was pricing the right P/Ns for what I need then I think I'll do the wiring myself.

So do I really need the Audi wiring harness?


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Ed
2000 SE Sport MTX

Mods:
Knauberized doors and badges / Mobil 1 oil / Mobil 1 ATF and FM / Fog Light rewire / THF

Future plans:
Glasspack and SVT exhaust / E1 wheels & tires / springs and struts...


Ed
2000 SE Sport MTX
T-Red & Loaded

'95 Chevy Caprice 9C1
Rear wheel drive and V8!
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well, the wiring harness would be hard to do without only because it plugs directly into the sidemarker socket. old A6 sidemarker sockets just had a simple spade terminal connection, but later ones actually have a plug-&-socket kinda deal.

however, those prices are WAAAAAAYYYYY outta line. i paid about $16 each for mine from http://www.donmcgill.com in houston, TX. TOTAL cost to my door was about $60 incl. shipping.

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blake
98.5 E1 SVT #4910, silver frost
- KKM, SHOshop pulleys, borla exhaust, ES MMI, taylor wires/bosch plat +4's
- 35% tint, momo shift knob, A6 sidemarkers, some audio improvements, 'advanced method' fog light fix
- yakima roof rack


blake
02 acura RSX type S, arctic blue pearl/ebony
- OEM fogs, S2k shift knob, 35% formula one tint, injen SRI
62 chevy C10 fleetside pickup, tan
- stock I-6, 3-on-the-tree, currently immobile in my garage
former owner of:
98.5 E1 SVT #4910, silver frost
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I went without and soldered the wire directly to the copper spades on the socket. It separates from the reflector assembly so the only advantage with the harness is that it's easier to attach wires. If they've revised the sockets, then I'm not sure. I had them show me a harness and whatever they were asking at the time, I thought it was too much. For $75 or $97 (!!) those harness better be made of gold.

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Louis Wang
Sugar Land, TX
1998 Black E0 #3826
http://web.wtez.net/tw57472


-Louis
1998 Black E0 #3826, lightly modded
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All you need in addition to the diodes and power resistors is four .25" Faston terminals, 16 gauge wire, some shrink tubing, a handful of 3M Current Taps and a few tywraps. Make you own harness and save $ome buck$$$. AL

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Red '98 SVT E0 3098/6535
KKM
Elizabethan EGR Plate
TH fix
Bosch +4s
B&M with reverse lockout disabled and centering spring removed
Mobil 1 oil and trans fluid
PowerStops and painted calipers all around
A6 Side Markers
Horn recontent
Painted Sail Panels
VooDoo Knob and pedals
Blau Houston & CD changer
Cup holders that work
BAT Sill Plates
Sway Bar bushings when I get around to it


Red '98 SVT E0 3098/6535
KKM, Elizabethan EGR Plate, TH fix
OMP front brace
Hightower rear brace
DMD
B&M with reverse lockout disabled and centering spring removed
Mobil 1 oil and trans fluid
A6 Side Markers, Optima orange, Horn recontent
Painted Sail Panels
VooDoo Knob and pedals, RogerR deadpedal
Blau Houston & CD changer
Cup holders that work
Donnelly mirror
BAT Sill Plates
and a Bullitt fuel door
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I am planning on doing this mod very soon, and I'm interested in the comments about the new sidemarkers... there's actually a plug now? No longer the simple copper spades?

Has someone used the new version (if it exists) to do this mod? I ask because I was planning on modifying the light to fit through the existing hole without enlarging it. I'm wondering if the more complex plug setup will make it more difficult . I can't imagine it would, as it can only be two connectors in there, but if someone knows first-hand I'd like to hear.



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Eric Walton
2000 Silver Frost SVT
1571 of 2150
Richbrook shift knob
Pioneer 6x8 2 & 3-ways
Hoodliner removed
Energy suspension motor mount inserts and rear bar bushings
Lighted SVT
Fog lamp mod

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Quote:
Originally posted by bigwalton:
Has someone used the new version (if it exists) to do this mod? I ask because I was planning on modifying the light to fit through the existing hole without enlarging it. I'm wondering if the more complex plug setup will make it more difficult . I can't imagine it would, as it can only be two connectors in there, but if someone knows first-hand I'd like to hear.


yep...they do exist...that's what i used. only hard part is that you can't feed the harness through the fender hole, make the connections, then push it back in like you might have been able to w/ the spade type. i loosened the fenderwell liner by removing a couple of the screws near the sidemarker hole and then reached behind it while laying on my back on the ground. it's working somewhat blind, but it's relatively easy to find the end of the harness in the fender and then find the socket to plug it in to.

based on the pictures in the FAQ how-to, the sidemarker socket is identical to mine but the wiring harness i got didn't have anything that remotely resembled the spade terminal thing. it just had two wires that disappeared into a round black plastic/rubber plug...it's been a while, and i didn't bother trying to pull it apart, so maybe the spade terminals are just hidden inside. don't think so, but anything's possible...

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blake
98.5 E1 SVT #4910, silver frost
- KKM, SHOshop pulleys, borla exhaust, ES MMI, taylor wires/bosch plat +4's
- 35% tint, momo shift knob, A6 sidemarkers, some audio improvements, 'advanced method' fog light fix
- yakima roof rack


blake
02 acura RSX type S, arctic blue pearl/ebony
- OEM fogs, S2k shift knob, 35% formula one tint, injen SRI
62 chevy C10 fleetside pickup, tan
- stock I-6, 3-on-the-tree, currently immobile in my garage
former owner of:
98.5 E1 SVT #4910, silver frost

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