Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction Remote Mounted Turbo System -

STS Camaro SS Dyno

It seems to work quite well . Id worried about it being mounted so close to the ground, any number of bad things could happen to it!

Wow that place must suck at tunning. A local guy has one on a SS and on 8 psi he his 510 hp and 630 tz

The thing is so stealth. Sounds completly normal no turbo or anything then you open it up and its like OMFGH2U

Ya, considering STS is THE company that tuned that car. They must suck

Perhaps the guy around you has more done to it? Or maybe he is pushing more boost. Just a thought.

Or difference in elevation from New York and Florida....

Sometimes I make stupid comments. It was only 8 psi but there was some race gas involved. As for other mods its stock except for a cat back.

Well after reading through all this im kinda curious about attempting something like this myself. It seems like it would be fairly straight forward. What type of compression do these cars have stock? I think it would be pretty simple to set up a remote turbo at the back of the Y-pipe and just kinda build a turbo so that it spools up fast.

Time to revitalize this thread...


as some of you know my hybrid is having issues, so it's probably on it's way out. That being the case I've decided that I'd prefer to drop in a full Oval Port 3L Turbo, however, seeing as the ADC kit is pretty much out of my price range I'm thinking I may have to be the first to actually do a remote turbo 'Tour.

Questions I still have though, both about this setup and turboing in general:

1. Any thoughts on how good the trunk breaths?

I ask because the STS Camaro (or whatever it is) runs a filter behind the rear-wheel under the car, and I'd rather not have to clean/replace the filter every week or two (I live on a dirt road) so I'm thinking that a hole in the truck floor and an intake pipe could solve this, but I don't know if the trunk can supply the necessary air.

2. Is it okay to run the MAF in a blow through configuration or would it be better to lengthen the wiring and move the MAF to the rear? I guess I'm really asking what the big draw back is to running a blow-through configuration, I've seen posts that tend to advice against it, but I'm not sure why.

3. I'd like to run ~10psi on pump gas and ~18psi on 110, with an effective powerband of 3,000-6,700rpm, with as little lag as possible, but I'm not sure how to tell what the proper turbo sizing and trim would be. t28? t3? t4? t3-4? I know the larger the unit the longer it takes to spool up, but if I go with something too small I'm afraid that the top end will suffer.

4. Dang there's a lot of oil line required to do this.

5. Would it be more efficient (and cost wise) to simply pick up the ADC kit? or maybe to just buy turbo headers (like MSDS), a turbo, intercooler, injectors, etc... and just put together my own "normal" turbo setup. (if I had access to a mandrel bender I'd be all over building all the piping myself, but I don't so I'd still have to purchase most of it)

1. You want to feed a turbo with the air in the trunk? At least it will never pop open while you are driving from all the vacuum.

2. Running the maf to the rear would effectively make your intake manifold like 7 cubic feet larger. You could never decel properly. A blow through will work but needs proper tuning and the maf won't go as far. You would run out of voltage quickly.

3. Smaller turbine side/larger compressor side. Refer to maps to pick out the right one.

4.Hell yes there is at like $4 a foot. Plus you will need a sump to get the oil back to the pan.

5.You are on your own. I am obviously biased.

i will soon be fabbing a turbo setup myself....doing a "normal" style

gonna cut my front msds header and mod it to work with a custom y pipe up to the turbo where the battery sits

NEVER heard of that one before...