Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
Originally posted by lowbudgetracing:
you never want to hit the threaded part of the tie rod with a hammer as it may damage the threads.
the best way to remove the tie rod with out damage is to remove the tie rod nut,and hit the side of the spindle where the tie rod go's through with a hammer and the tie rod will pop out with out damage.
reread Demons post he uses a dead blow..the pic shows a dead blow hammer also. Have you any idea how much hammering it would take to mar the threads with a dead blow hammer? I myself use a copper hammer..I've never had a problem starting the tie rod nuts back onto the threads afterwards.
Yes you are correct about hitting threads with a BALL PEEN hammer. Personally anyone that works on a car with a ball peen or hard faced hammer is a [censored] hammer mechanic HACK!!!! They don't make dead blow/copper/brass hammers/pullers for nothing.
No. lowbudgetracing is correct! The proper way is to buy a puller, a narrow c-shaped device that slides on the tie-rod mounting point of the spindle and has a screw to press it out.
If you don't have it then there is the pickle fork but the boots will be toast!
And finally,
His method of striking the metal joint of the spindle (not tie-rod) where the tie rod is inserted while you have a prybar behind applying tension, is the easiest accepted way among shop mechanics to pop a joint loose with no damage.
The shock will almost always pop it out in one or two blows and there will be no risk of damage to threads or boots.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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