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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,066
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,066 |
Originally posted by BradJ:
Hey guys, sorry to bring back an old thread. Just wanted to let you all know that my motor was replaced, under warranty, free of charge. It cost me a total of $63.83 to replace a speed sensor.
Upon disassembly, they found that one of the connecting rod bolts was not torqued to spec and came loose. This caused the connecting rod to come off the crank and fly through the block. There was a hole about the size of a silver dollar on the block!
Anyhow, got the car back and it's running smooth. Still in the break in period (I'm not subscribing to that guys break in theory that was posted earlier...  ) but it's running well.
Thanks for all the replies earlier!
Ford, only built on Friday's. Haven't they heard of QC ? Good christ.
Good news on the warranty though.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578 |
Originally posted by todras:
Good to hear Brad. Can't believe they actually diasgnosed it.
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 492
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 492 |
Originally posted by Stazi:
Originally posted by Pope:
Originally posted by Stazi:
All you do is disconnect the coil lead from the ECU = no spark.
Also it doesn't hurt that you leave out the plugs when you almost ready to start it for the first time and rank it over like that for a few seconds to prime all the oil passages without any compression from having the plugs in there.
Then reinstall the plugs and wires. reconnect the lead to the coil and start her up. Let it idle for the first time until it gets ALL THE WAY TO WARM/NORMAL. This allows a slow break in of any new components, especially the bearings. Then drive EASY for the first 50 miles. Don't lug the engine and don't rev the crap out of it. Keep it below 4000rpm. The after that drive it for the first 500 miles keeping it under 5000rpm. Then at 1000 miles change the oil and filter.
Oh for for the very first time USE REGULAR OIL TO ALLOW FOR BREAK IN!
Or the opposing position
Even if you believe this BS, you'll see that he agrees to warm the engine up completely. It's not liek as soon as you build the engine you peel out of your driveway and go fishtailing up the street - that's just stupid.
Sorry to say Stazi this is how I have ALWAYS broken in engines. I've been assembling car, bike and plane engines since 1980 and haven't had a single failure. All my new bikes have been broken in under this method and I always get high mileage out of them. I broke in my contour (from 19 miles) the same way and it's got 102 thousand now and I rev it to redline every single day. I know it goes against the grain but it works. Once it's warmed up I have at it.
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats".--H.L. Mencken
Bumper sticker,
OXYMORON #65 - Liberal Thinker
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 22
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 22 |
Originally posted by jthursby:
Sorry to say Stazi this is how I have ALWAYS broken in engines. I've been assembling car, bike and plane engines since 1980 and haven't had a single failure. All my new bikes have been broken in under this method and I always get high mileage out of them. I broke in my contour (from 19 miles) the same way and it's got 102 thousand now and I rev it to redline every single day. I know it goes against the grain but it works. Once it's warmed up I have at it.
Yeah, but that doesn't mean that breaking a motor in the 'traditional' way is necessarily wrong either. Many more people have been doing it the 'traditional' way for many more years, with no problems. For me, I like to err on the side of caution. I'll go with what's tried and true over something which 'may' work well for some...
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,291
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,291 |
I had considered that hard break-in method when I got my car running again, but also erred on the side of caution. I just couldn't see myself killing it immediately after waiting all that time to get enough motivation to fix it.
Congrats, Brad! Glad the warranty worked out for you.
I have to say though, I went through every reply in this thread that had rebuild tips and am proud to report I seem to have done everything mentioned (especially priming the oil!!).
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,029
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,029 |
congrats. at least all it cost you was a few sleepless nights. And you learned a very valuable lesson to boot.
Scott
Mabe I WILL be Phil.
1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green
BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,838
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,838 |
Very glad to hear that they replaced your engine under warranty . I had my fingers crossed for ya . I guess good things do happen once in a while in Ford-land  .
~~~~~~~ Phil
Black & Tan 2000 SVT Contour #2137 of 2150
35,000 miles & counting !
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343 |
Thats a big relief! 
99 T-green svt
K&N & heatshield
Opt. y-pipe
Borla
Superchip
DMD
Magnecore wires
Metal impeller water pump
BAT / Bilstein kit
21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe
215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's
jimmkreider@yahoo.com
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