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Originally posted by Stazi:
All you do is disconnect the coil lead from the ECU = no spark.
Also it doesn't hurt that you leave out the plugs when you almost ready to start it for the first time and rank it over like that for a few seconds to prime all the oil passages without any compression from having the plugs in there.
Then reinstall the plugs and wires. reconnect the lead to the coil and start her up. Let it idle for the first time until it gets ALL THE WAY TO WARM/NORMAL. This allows a slow break in of any new components, especially the bearings. Then drive EASY for the first 50 miles. Don't lug the engine and don't rev the crap out of it. Keep it below 4000rpm. The after that drive it for the first 500 miles keeping it under 5000rpm. Then at 1000 miles change the oil and filter.
Oh for for the very first time USE REGULAR OIL TO ALLOW FOR BREAK IN!
Or the opposing position
87 Mustang GT 5.0L TURBO
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It would have been pre-lubed (ie assembly lube on the bearings an such), but that does not mean you do not have to prime the oil pump on a brand new engine!! It still needs to be done! The lube is just there for the SPLIT second it takes to get the oil through out the engine. Originally posted by btrautman:
OH, this sounds like a long block from Ford. If so, I would guess that oil pump was already on engine as well as timing chains, etc. Did you notice your oil light when you first started the engine? How long did it take it to go out? Was it an extended period of time? Prebuilt from Ford the engine would have been assembled and lubed.
Sounds like you did get a defective long block.......good ole Ford -Fixem OR Die with em....
Bob
Ryan
Trollin!
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Upon assembly there is a procedure where you prime the pump when it if off the engine. Since this was preasembled this has already been done. When he starts the engine with oil in it, it should prime.....though I would have cranked it over before starting........
An indication of how things went is the oil pressure light. Did it stay on for an extended period of time or did it flash off like it normally does when one starts the engine.....
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Originally posted by btrautman:
Upon assembly there is a procedure where you prime the pump when it if off the engine. Since this was preasembled this has already been done. When he starts the engine with oil in it, it should prime.....though I would have cranked it over before starting........
An indication of how things went is the oil pressure light. Did it stay on for an extended period of time or did it flash off like it normally does when one starts the engine.....
Bob
Hey Bob, I don't recall the oil pressure light on for very long at all. It was maybe on for a few seconds.
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If it was on only for a few seconds, then this is normal. Sounds to me that you received a defective engine.... The fact that it started and ran fine and then fizzled after 5 minutes or so would indicate this - especially with a complete long block.....
This kinda reminds me of my atx oil pump that I replaced. When I rebuilt the tranny I bought a NEW atx oil pump instead of rebuilding the old...since they fail. The new oil pump has a whine to it. It has become more quiet over time but there is still that whine. Most noticeable when in gear and stopped. You can hear it from the outside but not from inside the car. I have been told that this has been a common problem with the new specs on these new pumps. Nothing fails but it is a little loud........and I do kinda notice every little thing on the car if you know what I mean.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Originally posted by Pope:
Originally posted by Stazi:
All you do is disconnect the coil lead from the ECU = no spark.
Also it doesn't hurt that you leave out the plugs when you almost ready to start it for the first time and rank it over like that for a few seconds to prime all the oil passages without any compression from having the plugs in there.
Then reinstall the plugs and wires. reconnect the lead to the coil and start her up. Let it idle for the first time until it gets ALL THE WAY TO WARM/NORMAL. This allows a slow break in of any new components, especially the bearings. Then drive EASY for the first 50 miles. Don't lug the engine and don't rev the crap out of it. Keep it below 4000rpm. The after that drive it for the first 500 miles keeping it under 5000rpm. Then at 1000 miles change the oil and filter.
Oh for for the very first time USE REGULAR OIL TO ALLOW FOR BREAK IN!
Or the opposing position
Even if you believe this BS, you'll see that he agrees to warm the engine up completely. It's not liek as soon as you build the engine you peel out of your driveway and go fishtailing up the street - that's just stupid.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Originally posted by Pope:
Originally posted by Stazi:
All you do is disconnect the coil lead from the ECU = no spark.
Also it doesn't hurt that you leave out the plugs when you almost ready to start it for the first time and rank it over like that for a few seconds to prime all the oil passages without any compression from having the plugs in there.
Then reinstall the plugs and wires. reconnect the lead to the coil and start her up. Let it idle for the first time until it gets ALL THE WAY TO WARM/NORMAL. This allows a slow break in of any new components, especially the bearings. Then drive EASY for the first 50 miles. Don't lug the engine and don't rev the crap out of it. Keep it below 4000rpm. The after that drive it for the first 500 miles keeping it under 5000rpm. Then at 1000 miles change the oil and filter.
Oh for for the very first time USE REGULAR OIL TO ALLOW FOR BREAK IN!
Or the opposing position
Even if you believe this BS, you'll see that he agrees to warm the engine up completely. It's not liek as soon as you build the engine you peel out of your driveway and go fishtailing up the street - that's just stupid.
Thats funny, when I used to work at the Pontiac Dealership... we got out first GTO in. As SOON as it was off the truck, the dealership owner went out to it, got in it, and BEAT THE SH!T out of it up and down the street... all with 12 miles on it.  I feel sorry for the sorry sap that bought that one.   Not to say I wasn't guilty of a few hard accelerations in those cars...but, I was just an underpaid worker.. 
2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Hey guys, sorry to bring back an old thread. Just wanted to let you all know that my motor was replaced, under warranty, free of charge. It cost me a total of $63.83 to replace a speed sensor. Upon disassembly, they found that one of the connecting rod bolts was not torqued to spec and came loose. This caused the connecting rod to come off the crank and fly through the block. There was a hole about the size of a silver dollar on the block! Anyhow, got the car back and it's running smooth. Still in the break in period (I'm not subscribing to that guys break in theory that was posted earlier...  ) but it's running well. Thanks for all the replies earlier!
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HAPPY DAYS!
That was an awful lot of money for a motor, but the warranty was worth it. I wonder if ADC will warranty their 3L installs...
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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I have no life
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Good to hear Brad. Can't believe they actually diagnosed it.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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