megafuse is located BEHIND the engine, between the firewall and the UIM. Find your coilpack(spark plug wires all lead to it) and look underneath it.. you'll see a black, plastic rectangle housing that holds some wires for the wire harness.
Secured to the BACKSIDE of this wiring harness holder(between the firewall and the holder) is the megafuse.
Best way to check it: don't remove it to check it.
- You'll need a multimeter.
- Remove the six spark plugs (not which ones they go to first.. ther should be a drawing on the coilpack, in the middle of all the spark plug connections, but it MAY be worn off from heat) WRITE DOWN which cylinders the plugs ran to.. ) NOTE: remove them from the COILPACK END... not the cylinders themselves. only do this after verifying the drawing THREE OR FOUR TIMES, or drawing your own to be sure..) NEVER remove more than one spark plug from the cylinder end if not needed, as this can easily lead to the wrong ones being hooked up and running poorly, etc
- Remove the coilpack (four bolts holding it on, be sure to notice that two of them also hold on a radio noise suppresor and the coilpack ground strap.. you'll need to make sure they both get put back on..) In the pictue below the coilpack is removed, and you can see the very tip of that black plastic wiring harness holder sticking up, kind of at an angle...
- now that you are looking at the mounting points for the coilpack, you can see the wiring harness that I was talking about (long plastic rectangle that runs the length of the UIM), and you should see two small metal posts coming from the backside of it, and angled towards the firewall. Between these two posts is the megafuse.
In the image below you can see the wiring harness holder (off of one of its mounts.. you don't need to do this, though..you can also see the coilpack mounts) You can see a gray/white wire and connector secured to the top of the rectangle as well... just BEHIND this connector is the megafuse. (You can see the main wire with a red rubber wrapping around it, coming in from the alternator on the left, and then leaving to the battery from the right. To be honest, its right about where that hole is drilled and the wire is coming out (though the hole/wire has nothing to do with the megafuse, its just for locating purposes is the only reason I said it.
- You can either remove the megafuse, by removing the nuts securing the fuse (those two posts), OR by simply checking resistance between the posts.
- place the multimeter on "ohm" or "Diode-check" mode. on diode-check mode, it should beep when you touch both ends (because of almost no resistance, through the fuse) if it doesn't beep then it is likely open, because of an open fuse.) Touch both posts, or touch the actual metal bands of the fuse in the middle of the two securing posts (the fuse looks like an inline fuse to an amplifier (round, metal bands on the ends...)
- MAKE SURE that you are touching the posts completely, as mine didn't beep a couple of times in a row, and then the third try it did. You might also change to ohm mode and check for actual numbers.
GOOD FUSE = nearly 0 ohms
BAD FUSE = anything in the MEGAOHMS range, OPEN, INF., or the INFINITE symbol (like an 8 laying sideways)
looking at roughly 30 minutes, only because you've never done it, and you have to remove all the plugs on the coilpack.
HTH
(wow.. at 5:30am, too.. Do I have a life?no (I didn't space "no" on purpose, because I didn't even have to think about it before typing the answer)
Ray
