Unless you are an experienced tuner with a chassis dyno and wide-band O2 monitor with digital readout, I recommend that you do not get a system like this. Someone that does not know what they are doing, can easily destroy their engine with just a few key strokes. Most people would be far better taking their car to a performance shop with a chassis dyno and chip tuning software. Sure you're going to pay $$$ for the dyno time, but you're also going to get an experienced tuner that knows how to safely get more power out of your combo.
Wife's car: '98 Contour SVT, black, drop-in K&N, no reasonator w/stock mufflers, Optima red top gel cell battery #0703 of #6535 My car: '95 Mustang GT, teal/gray cloth, w/Saleen body kit, 13" Baer brakes, GT-40 intake, Edelbrock heads, stock cam w/1.7 RR, 75mm Pro-M, 36lb injectors, custom JMS chip, MAC longtube headers, Vortech S-Trim (6-7psi), and way too many more mods to list... 382rwhp 379ftlbs torque with a very mild tune from JMS Visit www.sn95.com
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