Personally I would get rid of the cap.

A cap will attempt to maintain a full charge and with vehicle off.

That charge is maintained from the battery when the vehicle is off.

As a result you need more/bigger batteries for the cap when the engine is off, not to mention when the system is playing.

I'm not familiar with the amp you are using but caps are good for SQ applications where the amps need additional capacitance for transience.

Although for years many have used caps to reduce light dimming, today you will hear people speak of the BIG 3.

None of the 3 is a cap. Up gage all grounds and power from alternator and battery.

You want to improve the ground connections and wire gage from your battery to the frame (unibody) of the car.

For both power and ground I would use a 6 awg or larger wire based on your 60 amp fuse and assuming a 15 ft run of wire.

Move your amp ground and make sure it�s grounding to the frame (unibody). The lamp section may be providing a poor ground path through tack welds and bonded metal of the rear fascia.

Don't worry about any Alternator up grade.

It is a good idea and a part of the big 3 to upgrade the charge lead from the alternator to the battery.

With larger wire for both power and ground and better ground connections you should be able to omit the charge lead up gage, especially for engine off situations.

Make sure you have a good battery.

I have 1200 watts rms and 4 awg wiring as mentioned above with extra batteries with No Light Dimming.


Anthony B. Davis 2Deep2 Silver SVT 2002 IASCA SQ Ult Ama 601+ World Champion runner up 2002 SLAP dBQ Champion 2000 USAC SQ World Champion 2002 USACi SQ World Champion