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Is the drainage problem an issue with 3L heads particularlly with the '01 Duratec's?
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dont know about the particular years but i think the 3L do have extra drains in the head. Maybe Demon will chime in an let us know. I think he has said something about the heads and the extra drain backs before.
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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It's been published like 50 million times!
3L heads have three drains. The 2.5L heads in the contours have two drains.
There is no rhyme or reason to the bearing failures, no definite pin on the oiling system. There is much less proof for the crank whip and harmonics issue. Several theories loosely fit what is happening. Most of us tend to go with oil starvation from a combination of sloshing at a time when there is a failure to drain back to the pan...RE: Right hand turns. There are no drainbacks in the 2.5L heads at the rear of the engine...or left side as you sit in the car. The hard right turn theory is that there is a lot of oil in the heads under higher rpm loads. The hard right turn doesn't allow the oil to drain back to the pan and it pools in the top. The oil in the pan also sloshes and then the pickup sucks air. The combination of events causes bearings to loose oil film protection.
The thinner oils are more susceptible to this. Running a slightly thicker oil isn't recommended for friction purposes, but it could save your motor since it has a higher viscosity and will take longer to bleed out of the rods.
Recommended oil weight is 5w-30 but I ran 10w-40 much of the time in my car AND 20w-50 in deep summer in Arizona. Oh, and I always ran 6 full quarts at oil/filter change time. I've had DemonSVT get all over my case about bearing clearances and the like with the thicker oil, but I know what it is like in a hot climate and I have plenty of proven miles. I ran the hell out of my engine on twisty mountain roads over souther arizona, many hard long turns going up the mountains. The bottom line was at 40K miles when I converted to a 3L engine, those rod bearings looked like new, completely unmarked. The 3L hybrid with 2.5L heads that I did back in 2001 NEVER had a problem and the bearings looked like brand new. I always ran 10w-40 in it once I installed a turbo on the same motor...no issues. This isn't the only answer, but I stand on my experience and tell you that oiling issues described here are probably the best guess that we have. Oh, and I have been completely through this powertrain 3 different times. I've had two 3 different 3L engine configurations to include the current oval port 3L setup, so that is where I am drawing my claims of experience.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
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If anyone would like a picture of the Top of soem 2.5L heads to compare to the 3L to give an even better example i can get some pictures from the heads i got laying around.
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Originally posted by warmonger: 1. 3L heads have three drains. The 2.5L heads in the contours have two drains.
2. I've had DemonSVT get all over my case about bearing clearances and the like with the thicker oil, but I know what it is like in a hot climate and I have plenty of proven miles.
1. "per head" (just to clarify)
The 3L has 1 more large oil drain per bank and a larger cross drain.
2. Only the "20" part of the oil viscosity. That means less start up flowability and protection. A 20W50 of is roughly 32 viscosity oil at 100 degrees. That's slightly worse then running straight 30 at engine start up. 5W30 is roughly 15 and a 0W40 is roughly 15.
I run a 40 weight oil myself. (0W40) A 50 weight is not unheard of for Arizona's summer temperatures. (any overly hot climate)
Tom did hit the sore spot. The oil does pool on the outsides and rear of the heads. I don't know why they did not put even a small drain in that location.
2000 SVT #674
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It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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i'll go take some pic's demon so the people will get a visual idea where all the oil is pooling
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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well i just went and got the 2.5L heads i have to take pictures of them and i noticed that the heads i have have 3 drains per head, anyone know why. im loading the pics up right now so gimmie a minute on those
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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 here is one of the heads here is the other head
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Gearhead98, What is the whole casting number on the head? Middle part of the casting number will be like 6050 on one head and 6C064 on the other head.
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ok the numbers off the right head are RF-IS7E-6090-DC not sure if that is a 1 or I tho Numbers off the left head are RF-IS7E-6C064-AE i think it is 6C064, hard to read the first digit there, but the rest is right. Did i get special heads or something
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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