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Originally posted by paul martin:
what size would the hole be in the block for the pressure sensor. i'm wondering what size my T fitting should be.




block holes are 3/8 NPT.


87 Mustang GT 5.0L TURBO
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Originally posted by Pope:

To start with, I connected the hose end into the pressure sensor hole, the brass fitting to the left is an angle connector I'll be using to connect a T with the pressure sensor and a mechanical gauge line.






Okay, since I've been getting a ton of questions again lately, I thought I should do a little update.

First, the brass fitting on the left is a 45degree fitting, that was removed and replace with a 90degree to which the hose for my mechanical pressure gauge is connected. There is also a 3/8-1/4 NPT fitting between the block and the angle.

Next, here is a crued drawing of how I did things.



As you can see I relocated the stock sending unit to the head. This was done since it simply controls the dash light. Doing this requires unwrapping the majority of the wiring harness and rerouting the sensor wire and then rewrapping the harness, I do not recommend this unless you have time and patience for this type of activity. Technically, you can remove the bulb from the dash and toss the stock sender, but I choose to retain the sensor so there is a light to catch my eye when pressure drops since I'd rather have my eyes on the road through a curve than always on my gauge.


Here are the Summit Part numbers for everything I ordered. (the brass fittings I used for the pressure gauge were already owned, but are availiable at most parts stores)

Sum-220846......-8AN to 3/8 NPT adapter
Sum-220847......-8AN to 1/2 NPT adapter
Sum-220890......-8AN straight swivel hose end (2 needed)
Sum-230806.......Stainless Steel Braided Hose (-8AN, 6')
Mor-23901........Moroso 1.5 Qt Accumulator
Mor-23905........12vlt Electric Solenoid Valve
Mor-23920........Mounting Bracket for Accumulator

If you are only adding an accumulator, leave the stock sender where it is, and substitute an -8AN Swivel 90degree hose end for one of the straight hose ends listed above, and then attach the hose to the hex plugged hole.

The block holes are 3/8NPT, the head hole is 1/4NPT, and the stock sensor is 1/4NPT w/ a 3/8-1/4NPT fitting on it. If duplicating what I did, you do not need to purchase a 3/8-1/4 fitting, since you can reuse the one on the stock sensor for the gauge sender. However, I still do not recommend duplicating this as it does require redoing the wiring harness which is time consuming and sometimes frusterating.

As always, I'll still take questions on the install, but figured this info would answer most of them.

Last edited by Pope; 06/01/05 06:38 PM.

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somemore stuff straight out of a PM I just sent.



Alright, to do the install the Power Steering resevoir needs to be moved out of the way, as does the Coolant resevoir, done carefully, you do not even need to empty them. The coolant resevoir is easy, just unbolt and tilt out of the way, as for the Power Steering, grab hold of the rear corner where the cowl and fender meet and pull upward and toward the strut tower, it is held in place by a clip on the strut tower, then just tilt it slightly to the side for access to the hole through which the hose will route.

If you are only adding the accumulator, you can simply substitute a 90degree swivel hose end (sum-220887) for one of the straight hose ends and you should be able to attach the accumulator hose to the hex plugged hole without any problems, however the 90 hose end costs $9 more than the straight one. the other option you have ofcourse is to attach the accumlator hose in place of the stock sender, and move the stock sender to the plugged hole. this is technically the better way to attach it. Do to this you will need to add a 90 degree 1/4 NPT fitting between the sender and the 3/8-1/4 adapter that is already on the sender. This fitting can be found at most auto parts stores, and probably any hardware store.

To actually attach the stuff to the engine, remove the belt, working from below with be the easiest if you can get the car up in the air safely, (a lift is ideal, a tall set of jack stands will work fine), unbolt the three bolts that hold the a/c pump to the motor, (2 on the bottom 1 on top, should be 10mm if I remember correctly) and then move the a/c pump as far out of the way as the hoses and space will allow, and use a rope or cable ties or something of the sort to hold it out of the way. This is all that you should need to do in order to have access to the holes.

Other things to note.

In the cowl vent area, where the cabin filter was and the accumulator will be, there are two studs, the two that held the filter housing in place actually. Use the one closest to the wipers as a ground connection for the valve, then instead of drilling a hole to pass wires into the cabin to power the valve, take a large extension, or something else solid metal, and put one end on the face of the stud and hit the the other end with a large hammer (carefull not to slip and break the windshield), the stud is held in place with a few minor contact welds that should easily break opening up a perfect hole to run wires through. (I took a 2.5cm piece of rubber hose ran the wires through it, and then used waterproof cauk to seal the hose in place and the wires in the hose.)

The accumulator fits tightly in the cowl vent area. After marking the hole locations, I drilled the mounting holes, then bolted the mount closest to the fender in first. Then I had to slide the accumulator into that mount, and then slide the second mount onto the back of the accumulator, then bolt that mount to the car, which if you read one of my early posts is only held in place by one bolt not two. Bolting the second mount in place takes patients since there is not much room to work.



87 Mustang GT 5.0L TURBO
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