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i did not know that...makes me wonder why everyone doesn't put it there.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
You removed the heads with the engine still in the car...why? That seems like such a PITA...I would've just puled the motor.




Yes I did... although what you are seeing now is the reassembly process. I don't really have enought space to hoist it in assembled, so I'm doing it the "slightly" more difficult way. Actually, it isn't that bad, and not the first time I've assembled a motor in car; maybe I'm just used to it.



Thanks everyone for the compliments on the install. Real credit has to go to Shaggy, I got the idea to check out the location from PM's with him.


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Originally posted by TheGreatOne:
...makes me wonder why everyone doesn't put it there.




I NEVER would have thought of this. On the firewall was what I was thinking. This is INFINITELY better. Thanks!

That's a 2qt or 3qt??

Did some searching & BAT sells the 1qt unit... Is that the one?


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
That's a 2qt or 3qt??

Did some searching & BAT sells the 1qt unit... Is that the one?




This is actually a 1.5qt Moroso purchased through Summit Racing



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Did it come with the electric valve? It shows a manual valve in the pic


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Originally posted by Swazo:
Did it come with the electric valve? It shows a manual valve in the pic






I have an electric in the pic...

:edit:
Sorry, you mean the pic on Summit. It comes with the manual valve mounted to it, you do have to purchase the electric valve seperate, and the mounts too.

Prices through Summit:

Accumulator w/ manual valve: $179.88
Electric Valve: $99.88
Mounting Brackets: $24.88
-8AN to 3/8NPT Connector: $2.69
-8AN to 1/2NPT Connector: $3.95
-8AN Hose End: $5.95 Ea (2 req.)
6' Steel Braided -8AN Hose: $27.95

Total: $351.13

Last edited by Pope; 03/07/05 01:59 AM.

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Originally posted by Pope:
This is the route I went... and as for where the oil enters the engine, both holes tap into the same internal passage, just 1" apart.

The passge itself is the main passage from the filter to the entire engine, so oil coming from the accumulator will go everywhere that the pump was pushin oil.



I wasn't even looking at that post as I was responding to the clean install.

Terry just reminded me that:
The plug to the left of the sender is the gallery between the "dirty side" of the oil filter and the oil pump outlet.

The oil sender is between the "clean side" outlet and the main oil gallery.

Spot on for him to catch the fact they are not the same gallery like Pope alluded to.


Before and after the filter would not register the same pressure readings.


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Very clean install! Nice work!


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by Pope:
This is the route I went... and as for where the oil enters the engine, both holes tap into the same internal passage, just 1" apart.

The passge itself is the main passage from the filter to the entire engine, so oil coming from the accumulator will go everywhere that the pump was pushin oil.



I wasn't even looking at that post as I was responding to the clean install.

Terry just reminded me that:
The plug to the left of the sender is the gallery between the "dirty side" of the oil filter and the oil pump outlet.

The oil sender is between the "clean side" outlet and the main oil gallery.

Spot on for him to catch the fact they are not the same gallery like Pope alluded to.


Before and after the filter would not register the same pressure readings.





oops. maybe I should update my glasses, looked like the same passage to me.

So which is better, sending clean oil to the accumulator, or sending clean oil to the sending unit??


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Better would be "T" ing the clean side.


If you had to choose then of course clean oil to and from the accumulator is by far the better choice.

Remember the stock sending unit would get a falsely higher reading on the dirty side. It is possible the difference would not matter to the PCM but it's not like an aftermarket sender that is just running a gauge.


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