Originally posted by 4banganda5spd:
done that 100 american times. thanks though.
ok big dog in looking at your first post...I would still point to your MAF.
The MAF sensor is more sensitive than most people give it credit for. In other words...you may have a completely clean MAF BUT, you could be out of range on your sensors within the MAF. The MAF looks at several different things to adjust your AF ratio. Things such as humidity, relative air incoming for elevation, etc etc. What can happen is that the actual metering going on in the actual MAF module could be giving erronious info thus causing a rich or lean condition and giving you loss of power...and oh yeah...no CEL.
I had this SAME condition of NO power or sagging response in the higher RPM's. Just cleaning the MAF won't solve it. At first I thought it was the timing belt too. Found groves caused by a frozen idler pulley in the timing cover...the mechanic was pissed cuz he thought I messed with it...anyhoo to make a long story short too late, he installed timing belt and this did not fix it either... that is where the research started. So after butting heads with the mechanic guy on to why my car STILL had no power he made a couple of suggestions and I went ahead with the MAF....Swapped it and all was well
Two things I recommend. You are using two filters? An oversize K&N and an inverse? If I were you, I would remove the inverse filter and stick with the K&N. Then I would run up to AutoZone and get the MAF with a lifetime warranty or 3 year warranty...some long time like that. Do the swap in the parking lot like me so you can get your core charge. Let it sit while you reset all your radio stations then take off.
Have fun
Rich
'04 Ecotec Cavi 140hp/150tq Fabbed intake. Header Coming, DRL's disabled, X-Drilled/slotted rotors coming....Man you really are fast. You were hauling a$$ when I passed you
RB&LB
causing problems in Huntsville
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