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Joined: Apr 2003
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CEG\'er
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ive heard you say that before about the maf, sounds like good advice.
so guess what? got a fuel pressure guage from o'reileys and installed correctly with no visible leaks.
chiltons says psi for my year and model shoud be 37-41. at full throttle its at a steady 38-39 psi. through the entire rev range. idle pressure i think is low, reading 28-29 psi. does that sound right? any how there is no fluctuation in pressure.
im becoming more convinced it is a timing issue. today while feeding throttle in nuetral the car sounded like it had a two step on the ignition up around 5 grand. wouldnt that be the computer? unless, although rare, my mechanic buddy said itmay have been possible for the timing belt to have jumped teeth during some of my fast high rpm shifting. but wouldnt that send a code unless i have a cam timing sensor that isnt working?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Having the timing belt jump is technically possible but very, very, very, very unlikely.
Check your timing belt, if it feels tight I would be ahrd pressed to believe it jumped.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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Joined: Apr 2003
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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my thoughts exactly. so now im back to it possibly being the computer.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 610
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2004
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unhook your battery for 10 minutes and then put it back on and drive it around and see how it behaves
2002 Cougar
2.5 duratec/ mtx-75
85,0000
Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT
black/black
Spec Stage 1
Torsen T-2
Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust
apexi s-afc II
K&N FIPK
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Joined: Apr 2003
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done that 100 american times. thanks though.
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Originally posted by 4banganda5spd:
done that 100 american times. thanks though.
ok big dog in looking at your first post...I would still point to your MAF.
The MAF sensor is more sensitive than most people give it credit for. In other words...you may have a completely clean MAF BUT, you could be out of range on your sensors within the MAF. The MAF looks at several different things to adjust your AF ratio. Things such as humidity, relative air incoming for elevation, etc etc. What can happen is that the actual metering going on in the actual MAF module could be giving erronious info thus causing a rich or lean condition and giving you loss of power...and oh yeah...no CEL.
I had this SAME condition of NO power or sagging response in the higher RPM's. Just cleaning the MAF won't solve it. At first I thought it was the timing belt too. Found groves caused by a frozen idler pulley in the timing cover...the mechanic was pissed cuz he thought I messed with it...anyhoo to make a long story short too late, he installed timing belt and this did not fix it either... that is where the research started. So after butting heads with the mechanic guy on to why my car STILL had no power he made a couple of suggestions and I went ahead with the MAF....Swapped it and all was well
Two things I recommend. You are using two filters? An oversize K&N and an inverse? If I were you, I would remove the inverse filter and stick with the K&N. Then I would run up to AutoZone and get the MAF with a lifetime warranty or 3 year warranty...some long time like that. Do the swap in the parking lot like me so you can get your core charge. Let it sit while you reset all your radio stations then take off.
Have fun
Rich
'04 Ecotec Cavi 140hp/150tq Fabbed intake. Header Coming, DRL's disabled, X-Drilled/slotted rotors coming....Man you really are fast. You were hauling a$$ when I passed you
RB&LB
causing problems in Huntsville
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Joined: Apr 2003
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thanks a million man. good information. i was actually pricing the MAF this last week and i couldnt decide whether to get that or the computer even though the maf is a lot cheaper. just really didnt want to spend money on either one id it didnt fix the problem. i can get a remanufactured maf for like $80 from parts depot couple towns away. ill look into it further. thanks again,.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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replaced the MAF with a remanufactured from o'reileys and no change. still have same symptoms. just ordered a reman. cumputer from them that should come in wednesday. if thats not it then maybe its the timing belt or cam gears, then maybe its the valve train. the car clatters slightly when i turn it off like it is a timing issue, but still troubleshooting. could there still be a fuel problem with the regulator or the injectors even though fuel pressure is correct? i checked the injectors using the screw driver to the ear method, they're clicking, but thats all i know.  jeesh!! cant wait till i figure this out. its incredibly frustrating driving around with 88 hp. 
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Joined: Apr 2003
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finally got her fixed guys.
hauled five dudes around for a short bit in the tour last night, and i guess the extra load on the motor made the condition worse cuz when i left my friends house the car was studdering and sputtering badly. could not accelerate past 1/16 throttle position. heard hissing coming from the engine compartment while driving and could not see any vaccuum leak.
figured it could only be one thing, the one thing i hadnt really taken time to check out,... catalytic converter. so this morning i went with my hunch and without even pulling the 02 sensor to check, had a different mechanic guy i knew "remove exshaust flow obstruction" for an hours labor, and BAM!, she's runnin like a top! volume on the exhaust knob was turned up too as a result and im freakin happy.
now the blaster coil gets to go back on as does the superchip. definitely gonna have to make another visit to the track for some fun. first cool night in april im there. o'reilly's is refunding the cost for my computer as i type. ha!!
thanks again to all who took the time and effort to offer help on this issue, always keeps me motivated. keep up the good work fellas!
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