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I have a 95 Mystique with 143k virtually problem free up until now. I can go three ways: 1) Spend $2,000 to fix current problems 2) Spend $3,000 to put 3.0L Hybrid in and do some preventative maintence (clutch, tranny, worn out parts), 3) run it until it drops (mechanic estimates 6-8 months).

Check engine light revealed two codes EGR valve and Idle Control Valve. Further investigation revealed blown intake and valve cover gastkets and Idle Control Solonoid. Front and tranny motor mounts are shot and need replacement. 2nd gear syncho in tranny has been shot for 1.5 years, needs repair/replacement. Clutch has never been replaced.

I need some advice on how best to proceed. This is my first ford and I have been happy but I don't want to sink a ton of money into a sinking ship. If I can get this girl to last a few more years I'd be happy. How many miles can a duratec give before a complete overhaul is necessary?

Wally


'95 Mystique 2.5L Man with MSDS y-Pipe, AEM SRS intake and an excellent tune-up from LOW BUDGET RACING
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look at the retail: it's depressing. If you love that car, and it's in good shape aside from the current mechanical issues, then the 3L sounds like a good plan. The numbers don't make sense as far as an economical car, so have some fun!


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$2,000. to fix those problems??? That sounds like an awful lot for those minor problems. If you're clutch isn't slipping then why replace it? A clutch can last indefinitly. It all depends on what kind of mileage it has seen and how the car is driven. The tranny, you can buy a used one for less than $200.. I just sold one for a 95 V6 for $75.00. They're around and they're cheaper than the 98-00 5 spd's which are cable shifts(95-97 are rod shifts). The intake gaskets are easy to do, there is even an excellent how to in the FAQ's section. The IAC and EGR aren't too expensive and they are easy to replace also. Motor mounts, you're looking at about $100.(+/-) for them. Labor will be your most expensive part, but even then I don't see $2,000. for repairs.

If you like the car and want to keep it then repair the 2 sensors and drive it until it drops. Put some money aside so when it does go you can either upgrade to a 3.0L, or replace the 2.5L with a use one(I have them)or a remanufactured one. OR when the time comes, just get a newer one.

As far as how long they last???? I've had quite a few with less than 100K with a rod poking through the block or a blown head gasket and I've also had quite a few with close to or over 200K miles and still running strong. Again, in the long run it all depends on how it was taken care of and driven.


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I rounded up the estimate is $1700. From what my mechanic says the bear is the solonoid which controls the Idle Control valve. He tells me that he'll have to tear a lot of stuff out to get at the solonoid. Unfortunately most of the bill will be labor.

He told me that the ford dealership locally had a dozen solonoids in stock which he says is an indication of a known bad part. He thinks the Idle Control valve is actually OK just the solonoid is shot.

I think I'm going to go the 3.0L hybrid route and have my tranny repaired and replace the clutch while we're in there, put in a Limited Slip Differential and get the motor mounts fixed also.

Thanks for the help I appreciate it.



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Originally posted by sundaydriver33:
I rounded up the estimate is $1700. From what my mechanic says the bear is the solonoid which controls the Idle Control valve. He tells me that he'll have to tear a lot of stuff out to get at the solonoid. Unfortunately most of the bill will be labor.

He told me that the ford dealership locally had a dozen solonoids in stock which he says is an indication of a known bad part. He thinks the Idle Control valve is actually OK just the solonoid is shot.

I think I'm going to go the 3.0L hybrid route and have my tranny repaired and replace the clutch while we're in there, put in a Limited Slip Differential and get the motor mounts fixed also.

Thanks for the help I appreciate it.






????????????

Something doesn't make sense. What solonoid is he talking about? The IAC is a solonoid of sorts. I don't remember there being any others in that system. It is NOT all that hard to change.


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I know of no solinoid controlling the IAC valve.

Drive down the road to find another mechanic, because you're about to be taken for a ride anyway.

Find some CEGers in your area, buy the pizza and beer & make a weekend of it. Your car will be like new for WAAAAY less than $1700 - Unless Kremi shows up to drink beer.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by sundaydriver33:


I think I'm going to go the 3.0L hybrid route and have my tranny repaired and replace the clutch while we're in there, put in a Limited Slip Differential and get the motor mounts fixed also.






Good idea while you are there.
But the motor mounts that you will replace...May I suggest that the rubber inserts are merely worn? There a couple products that fill the gaps and hence stops the movement. Depending on the front mount you have, CTA motorsports sells a Poly Bushing of sorts to stiffen the mount also. It's cost effective that way


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I agree with Big Jim, something doesn't make sense. The IAC is a selenoid. It's all one nonserviceable piece. It takes all of 10 minutes to replace, and that is if you've never done it before. All you need is an 8mm deep socket. You may bust a knuckle, but other than that a piece of cake. Do it your self. Buy the IAC at Autozone for $50. and take a few minutes to do it yourself. Disconnect your battery for a few minutes when you are done to reset the PCM otherwise it will take longer for the PCM to take to the new IAC. Most importantly, don't go to that dealership!


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Everyone thanks for all your help and advice. I think that I'm going to look for a new mechanic. I used to do a fair amount of wrenching in the past on my 57 Chevy and 79 Honda Accord but both those cars are long gone. I'm a little intimidated by all the electronics that are packed into the engines these days. It may be time that I pick up a manual and get familiar with this car so that I'll know if I'm getting ripped off.



'95 Mystique 2.5L Man with MSDS y-Pipe, AEM SRS intake and an excellent tune-up from LOW BUDGET RACING

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