Here is a modified picture I took from edorfox (Thanks mate!). {I am indebted to you for showing me the fuel pump pics. I have to fix that pesky bugger myself (stumbling after cornering)}

I have an arrow pointing to the jumper location.

You have to scrape off the thin silicone goof off the four contacts and then run a bead of solder from each of the top contact to the bottom contacts. You cannot allow the contacts to touch, from side to side. Make sure by running a screwdriver between the two bridged terminal sets after you're done to ensure separation.


Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
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2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt