Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance PRO-M and KKM

http://www.contour.org/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=007324

This was the problem that I have been having, so PRO-M told Muscle Motors to have me turn meter from it's 12 o'clock position to 3 and if I still get a CEL then I should keep moving the PRO-M at small increments back to 12 to see if it will go off. I guess somehow that may trick the airflow, so my car will not run lean. If that doesn't work then I will eventually have to send it back. Jack at uscle Motors said that he knows a place with around 150 faulty ones, so i can only imagine when I would see mine fixed. Has anyone else had this problem with their PRO-M's where they had to move the thing in order to keep it from getting a CEL? I didn't get that many responses in the Problems forum, so I am posting it here because it does have to do with performance parts. Any help/info is appreciated!!

Keith, I had the same problem with the maf I purchased from MM. With my chip installed the car would detonate like no tomorrow, without the chip it would "surge"(lack of fuel). Luckily I had ordered the remote optimizer at the same time, I had to dial it in full rich at the high speed setting just to get it to not detonate. Then about a month down the road the maf optimizer broke(looked used when I got it!), so then I was SOL. Sold the maf and gave the optimizer with it for free. My personal feeling is that Muscle Motors doesn't question the NECESSARY info like factory maf serial number, build date, engine mods etc.. All they ask for is factory or cold air inake? If I purchase another maf it will be from SP, and hopefully it will work correctly.

I'd hate to say it guys but I've had some problems with my 75mm MAF I got from SP. I don't think SP had anything to do with it, but it does have some probs. I never had it go as far as detonation, but I've had numerous hard starts and the idle still fluxes. I ended up putting the stock MAF screen to see what it would do. It helped alot, no CEL anymore, but the idle is still very iffy. Hope this helps.

(I imagine the prob should be easy to fix from here... While keeping my fingers crossed...)

I have a CEL also but i dont have a code. IDK what it is. Does anyone know what there voltage is at idle mine is about .75

I idle at about .7 - .8 cold, and .6 or so hot (MAF volts). Your idle sounds about right to me. If you have a local Autozone, they'll scan your code for free.

Keith, what they told you to do is BS. If your part doesn't work correctly, then it should be fixed. Simple as that.

Well this really seems like a problem. Muscle Motors did take my build date etc off of my car however my problems was that they seem to have calibrations for a conical style filter like the KKM, and a cold air system like the CAI. That little Elbow curve must make a big difference?? I just don't understand how turning my MAF is going to change the reading of air coming into my car. All the air has to go through that part, so why should the position of the sensor matter. I think that I should just send it back , however it took me almost 3 months to get the thing in the first place, who knows how long it will take to get the thing back. I just don't know.

Hmm..Kieth, you're getting me worried now. My MAF took about 3 months to get here too, and it says "STK" on it. I'll be using an open element w/ it (it doesn't fit w/ the stock airbox). I'm waiting for an open element adaptor, but I'll let you know what happens. I don't see why a stock MAF can handle an open element, but this one can't. My guess is that it's an injector calibration prob. BTW, I'd bypass mm and just send it back to ProM.

PRO-M told me that I had to go through the company I bought it from, which would be Muscle Motors. I would be worried about a CEL with your setup also. It should say C for conical filter.

How can a OBD-II computer throw a CEL and not have a code? I was not aware that this is/was possible. Not to say, of course, that it is not possible (just a question).

I have have the MAF calibration problem with my Vortech MAF. I had heavy detonation in the high R's (documented on some really ugly dyno graphs) and I found, eventually that I had the wrong sample tube. My MAF was not even made for a Contour. It was made for the SHO. Thanks alot Vortech! I am currently using a Pro-M with the 2000 calibration and I have no issues. I have a Pro-M with the 98 calibration, in the mail, just to be on the safe side. In hindsight, I should have spent the cash on the S-AFC or E-Manage... Oh well... Another day. I no longer throw the CEL codes and my car runs strong now.

Po-Jay, What does it say on the top of the MAF sensor, and also what kind of intake setup do you have?