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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 306
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Fitted my JR air filter kit purchased from BAT today. Straightforward job, the wing liner was the tough part! Having had the K&N 57i induction kit (cone filter), this is superior. I am going to measure the IAT temp with my OBDII software and plot to see if the pipe etc is gaetting cooler air to the engine. Noise is a bit more throaty than the K&N, plus the blue colour matches my underbonnet theme! Here's some pics. 
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,066
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Posts: 2,066 |
Just a question....It just seems to me that with all those bends that much air will be flowing. Is there a better route you could fix the tubing?
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 316
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My guess is that 90% of the air entering that filter is coming in from the first 2" from the MAF. Air takes the path of least resistance. So the likelyhood of air entering the tube is not high.
98 T-Red Contour LX V6 Mtx 106k miles 9" K&N, Aussie Pipe, Dual Mode Damper, 19lb. injectors, SHM MAFterburner, Ford 9mm Wires, Mystery Mod, ShoShop Off-road Y pipe, Dynomax Resonator and Muffler, 2.5" custom cat-back.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,066
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Agreed....I think a better solution would be something similar to what the IS300. A short route which diverts the air flow coming through the front end towards the filter. Or maybe creating some sort of sealed filter enclosure. I'd guess that it would need to be designed very carefully though, probably more trouble than its worth. 
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 306
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The tube is not kinked in anyway, and is wide enough to supply sufficient air. When you see the spigot thing that sits in the wing that the std air filter assembly has to A pull ALL it's air through then you'll see what a improvement the pipe is! Most of the required air will be pulled in from the engine bay; the purpose of the pipe is to push cooler air to the filter area, using a ram effect to attempt to get intake temperatures down.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 18
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It doesn't make sense to me why BAT would use a bellow hose for "smooth" intake air. Bellows are the last thing air needs. The air just burbles over them. They're just like the spoilers on the wings of aircraft in a sense. BAT should have gone with a more flexible vacuum hose instead of the stuff that comes off a pool pump. Anyway, in order for "ram air" to work the air must follow the shortest, most direct path from the air source to the manifold. If you throw all these twists, bends, bellows and filters in the way the air just stalls out, and doesn't allow anymore in until the little that is in the hose is accepted into the manifold. Sorry BAT, but you should have gone to aerodynamics class with me.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 306
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Here's the results from todays trial. Temps / Speeds from laptop OBDII software:- The pipe connected drops the IAT. As you put your foot down, the engine demands more air, so more is drawn from the engine bay. As speed increases, RAM effect increases. Seems to work! Here's some pics of the std air filter air pipe 
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