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Ok well my car was at my mechanics for like two weeks to try and get the CEL fixed so I could get it inspected. He basically tried everything short of just replacing parts in hopes that it would cure the problem. My question is, could bad O2 sensors because causing the computer to read both banks rich if they were on their way out? He monitored the voltages and they read correctly and he said that he saw that they were at least trying to lean everything out, but apparently it just isn't enough.
I am not sure what else to do at this point but these stupid codes are going to drive me to sell the car. We also already replaced the MAF. Any input is appreciated. Thanks
2001 Volvo S40-Perrin MBC@ 11psi, EST intake, 35% tint, still slow
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Post the code(s) you have.. that will tell us the likely problem...
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Oh, sorry about that. In the post I said that both banks were running rich, so the codes would be P0172 and P0175.
2001 Volvo S40-Perrin MBC@ 11psi, EST intake, 35% tint, still slow
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If the MAF and the injectors are the correct size (OEM) and not bad, check the fuel pressure. High fuel pressure would be the most common reason for running rich.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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I believe he said that when he checked the fuel pressure it was within spec. If I remember correctly it was around 46psi if that sounds right.
2001 Volvo S40-Perrin MBC@ 11psi, EST intake, 35% tint, still slow
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Joined: Oct 2004
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I take it no one has any ideas or suggestions?
2001 Volvo S40-Perrin MBC@ 11psi, EST intake, 35% tint, still slow
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gotta love the new inspection laws i have a couple months to figure out my problem too, banks 1 and 2 low voltage and air metering problems...... for you i would try the coolant temp sensor,maybe the camshaft postion sensor,and top o2's,maybe get some mil's for the bottom two o2 sensors,just in case, there werent any air leaks after the maf or around the o2's? that woudld be another guess.........btw you still moving out this way???
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Do you think sensors like coolant temp sensor and camshaft sensor could cause codes to come up saying both banks running rich? I was thinking of replacing the top 2 o2's, but just wanted to rule out all other options first before forking over the money since they aren't really that cheap. There aren't any air leaks that I know of so I don't think that is the problem. (most times wouldn't that mean it was running more lean than anything anyway?)
Anyway, yea I am still moving out that way. The first weekend of March to be exact. I am renting an apartment in Endicott.
2001 Volvo S40-Perrin MBC@ 11psi, EST intake, 35% tint, still slow
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I'd try the coolant temp sensor first...cheaper....
The replace one o2 sensor and see if that clears up one of the codes...If it does, then replace the other...
Coolant temp sensor controls many things.......o2 adjustemts, atx operations, etc.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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i believe it's about 28.00, iirc.....how many miles are on the current o2's?? if they have 80k or so i'd prob just replace them anyways....maybe one at a time like was just posted....if your doing it yourself do the front first.........i hate changing that back one
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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