Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Dyno and Drag fastest N/A non-SVT 2.5...

what was mumms running for diff gears?

i am not quite sure what the part they broke looks like does anyone have photos?

Yeah! You make me want to get out and race tonight!

I'm pulling my rear mount tonight to fill it. I managed to find some hard assed polyurethane and I'm going to do it right this time and cut everything away.
I was very tempted to just do an exchange with that guy "pole..." but since I have to go under the car to lubricate everything and do some work, I may as well do it myself.

I went to the junkyard and got two new steering knuckles for $100. I've discovered that there is some damage to the drivers hub and passenger hub from when I had new wheel bearings pressed in. It has been causing a slight shudder in the front of the car so I am not taking any chances this time. It ends up being cheaper to get two knuckles with good bearings and hubs then to buy the stuff separately and have the stuff pressed again.

So I'm doing new hubs and filling the mount today. I'm adding a second sealed gellcell battery to the trunk today and improving some of the wiring.
After I get that done I'm going to build a new 70mm TB since I have the parts.
When I get the lower intake from SOMEONE I'm going to work on that thing to remove the secondaries and prep it to fit my converted ovalport heads.
Finally, I will install the new manifold with no secondaries and redyno. Then if I can, while I'm on the dyno I'll pull the 60mm TB and swap in the 70mm TB and then dyno again.
That should give me a before and after dyno of the manifold, then a dyno with the 70mm so that I can see what each one was worth.

After that I'm going to change out my turbo manifolds to some headers and dyno again to see what the final package looks like. If I get the SCT Racer package I'll truly have the ability to get the most out of my engine package.

So that is the plan.

Of course if anyone wants to buy it then, the price will be going up a little bit according to the amount of money I put into the new mods.

It's probably harder than that! It is from the hardware store and it is quote, "once-cured it can be shaped by sanding and filing".

Other than this stuff, the best I could find was 60A. I debated that since I thought some flexibility might be best for NVH, but then I said screw it and went for the hard stuff just to make sure I don't have to do it again.

I cleaned out the mount last night and it was a beeeaaootch!
The urethane (flexible type) that I put in before had filled in the center of the two rubber disks and it was sooo tough to pull out! It made what should have been short work with a drill of about 5 minutes to get the stock rubber disc out to an hour process! And it was still flexible, like a damned rubber band. So I didn't achieve anything the last time but to make the stock rubber stuff more secure with no added stiffness.
All it probably did was preserve the stock rubber longer. Oh well, its out now and I'll be casting the new mount in an hour or so.

How long do I let this stuff cure for?

I used windshield poly, the guy was at my shop with that nice electric caulking gun (stuff is hard to squeeze) changing a windshield, so I asked a favor and it helped a lot with the hop and drivetrain movement, did front and rear.

I myself and some of the guys I know with crazy fast civics use the stock axles cuz the upgraded ones still broke almost as much with no warranty so a $60 replacement is much better then $400 (they keep spares with them at the track). I have broke my whole diff housing thou as well that sucks, fyi the whole assy from fords is much cheaper then buying separate parts, but of course atb is the way to go.

94A is the top end, 2 part casting compound and it takes days to fully cure. (2 days for minimum retention and 6-7 days to fully cure)

I would expect whatever urethane you picked up has the instructions on it.
If it's just a one part RTV style urethane I would expect the cure time to be significantly shorter. Though by the description it sounds like a 2 part compound.

If I fathomed a guess from your description I would say the stuff you picked up is most likely in the 80A - 88A range. (That's the very high end for urethane compound) The high durometer products only come in casting compound form.

The "typical" top end urethane like window weld or high end 3M products is only 60A. Most other mixtures are softer then that even.