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So, does anyone use Motorcraft oil?? I was at Advance yesterday and noticed they have Motorcraft oil. This was the first time I had seen it at my local one. Anyways, I was looking at the back and apparently the 5W-30 is a synthetic blend oil. So, I decided to switch from my usual, which is Castrol GTX. ~$.50 a quart cheaper + synthetic blend =  I did some reading on it and it is supposedly a pretty good blend. Thoughts, comments??
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Hey Andy,
I've seen alot of posts on here to stay away from the blends. They're just supposed to be marketing hype. However I fell for it and used it in the 'Tour for about 2 changes and then went 2 AMSOIL. I've heard they're dino oil is really good though. I would go with M1 or Amsoil if I were you, then do a oil analysis from Blackstone labs. I've yet 2 do mine. Just my $.02
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Motorcraft oil is one of the best dino oils. The synthetic blend part of the name is marketing hype. If Castrol can get away with calling Group III base stock a full synthetic, then others can call anything similar a "synthetic blend".
Motorcraft oil is made by Conoco. Others in the Conoco that are essentually the same thing include TropArtic, Kendall, and Unical.
The same "pure base" base stock is also used by Chevron (who holds the patent), Texaco, Penzoil, and probably Quaker State who is owned by Penzoil.
The short answer is that Motorcraft oil is excellent stuff.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Well, it was $.50 a quart cheaper than my usual Castrol GTX so... As long is its AS good (maybe better?), that works for me... It cost me $31 for the oil and filter for the Mystique and my dad's ranger. Not bad for 2 oil changes...
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
It cost me $31 for the oil and filter for the Mystique and my dad's ranger. Not bad for 2 oil changes...
That'll work!!! 
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2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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I run it in my Lightning....and my last oil sample was pretty good with 3500 miles (two trips to the drag strip and a 1200 mile road trip)on it they said it could have gone longer....
Ryan
Trollin!
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Synthetic blend is more than just a marketing hype, this is according to American Petroleum Institute engineers. While it is true that what constitutes a synthetic blend varies greatly, the reputable manufacturers use it as a deposit resistance, temperature resistance, and film strength enhancement. Amsoil would have you believe that everyone who markets a synthetic blend is not being truthful. Some aren't but most are. Stick with the well know brand names like Castrol, Valvoline, and Conoco (Motorcraft) for synthetic blends.
Use full synthetic if you have a lower mileage car or one that has used synthetic since it was relatively new. Many higher mileage cars when switched to full synthetic will leak past the seals. The synthetic is so slippery it will go right past the seals. The synthetic blends will usually not do this, and work great in higher mileage cars that are being switched from straight dino oil.
'96 SE 2.5 V6 ATX, Willow Frost Metallic
10-hole '84 Mustang 15x7 wheels w/ Dunlop 225/50-15's
CSVT air intake components with K&N cone filter
Optimized TB
Gutted Pre-cats w/MIL eliminators
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Originally posted by tktrain:
The synthetic is so slippery it will go right past the seals.
the reason is the detergents in full synthetics do a much better job of cleaning out the crap that "assist" older engines with less good(bad english, i know) seals. when all this crap is swept away the old seals sometimes are not able to properly and/or effectively perform their job because all that crap was a barrier for the oil. a high mileage engine with good seals will have no problem with leaking at all.
00 black/tan svt, #2052 of 2150, born 2/1/00
formerly known as my csvt
"Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
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Originally posted by my csvt:
Originally posted by tktrain:
The synthetic is so slippery it will go right past the seals.
the reason is the detergents in full synthetics do a much better job of cleaning out the crap that "assist" older engines with less good(bad english, i know) seals. when all this crap is swept away the old seals sometimes are not able to properly and/or effectively perform their job because all that crap was a barrier for the oil. a high mileage engine with good seals will have no problem with leaking at all.
I switched from dino to full syn at 120,000 miles. I had experienced no leaks from the day it was delivered new. I am the original owner and religiously changed the oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals with Motorcraft, I have the receipts from my local Mercury dealer "quick lube" service to prove it (at the time it was my company car, and they paid for all service). As soon as I put the 5W-20 full syn in it, I started seeing oil spots on the garage floor. I went 6000 miles total (an oil filter change at 3000) with the full syn and had to add a quart after 2000 miles. I then switched to 5W-20 syn blend and the leaks went away after about 500 miles. Shortly after this I heard the Saturday morning "Click and Clack" show on PBS radio talk about this very subject of switching high mileage vehicles to syn. They related the leak past the seals scenario. After hearing the same explanation from them and a lubrication engineer I used to work with at International Harvester's Advanced Engine Design group in Melrose Park, Illinois, I believe that it is likely true. He said seals wear slightly over the extended mileage with the dino, and that they can thermo set a bit from heat cycles. The full syn can simply work it's way past them. Kerr-McGee Petroleum's chemists also have published research that says basically the same thing. 
'96 SE 2.5 V6 ATX, Willow Frost Metallic
10-hole '84 Mustang 15x7 wheels w/ Dunlop 225/50-15's
CSVT air intake components with K&N cone filter
Optimized TB
Gutted Pre-cats w/MIL eliminators
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