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Quote:
Originally posted by bnoon:
...Who cares if I might get 20-30 more below 2,000 RPM... I never drive the dang car down there anyway and the tires can't put it to the ground even if I did.....
Your experience with pinned secondaries [b]SHOULD
be negative. Pinning them is just a way to see if the low end losses are worth it on your car with your mods and driving style.[/b]
I agree that it should be negative, but I need high end hp numbers before I do this mod. I lost about 20hp down low... I will need to gaurentee at least 6-8hp high end before I will remove them. That way I don't feel like I am losing more than I gain.
I already am getting irritated with the fact that I have about $1500 in total mods and have stock HP numbers. Not to mention the high RPM detonation (Hence the sponsorship...). I believe that my Vortech MAF was the root of all evil, so I switched to 75mm Pro-M, but that is another grueling story...


Po-Jay

Ghetto Mods Galore!
Quaife-CenterForce Clutch-Butterflies Rmvd and Replaced again-Bassani Exhaust w/custom "Y"-Pipe-33% of Mystery Mod-Pro M 75MM MAF-BNoon Optimized SVT TB-B+M Short Throw-ES Front Engine Mount-Some Aesthetic Crap-
Blood,Sweat,Tears
Do I hear the Fat Lady singing?
98 E0 Silver Frost (Is there any other color?)
172HP 149TQ W/Bad A/F Mix
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The intake manifold on the Duratec is a dual resonance intake you will lose low end power and torque by removing the sec. butterfly's. The only thing that will stop that is a completely new intake manifold fabficated with different dimensions. smile

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The only thing I will say is my car is slow with out them wink And if you thing i would lie to you you are right! get the right setup and it pays big.


Silver 99 SVT
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank:
Thanks for the information. Now why don't you pull the rods and dyno? It's not like you can't put them back...

And BTW... 2-4hp from just removing those skinny little butterflies is impressive... I'm surprised you gained any power at all. If you remove the rods, which are much more restrictive, you will probably gain a lot more power.
It will not help you recover the low rpm power, which is more significant than even a 5 hp gain.

I went through the same thing by driving it with the secondaries pinned open and then working normal. No apparent gain up high, but noticeable drop down low. It is why I enlarged my runners, but left the butterflies in. It may leak a tiny bit of air past the butterflies now, but they still operate like normal and more than compensated for the loss of area due to the rod diameter.


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
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Thanks Pojay for your honest assessment and diligent research.

I for one am a proponent for leaving them installed unless you go with a totally different manifold like the '01 3L manifolds. I still want to see the results of that car that CARDOC is building with the 3L manifolds.

warmonger


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
Engine: 3.0 power!
Unique Stuff: Sunroof control module (#1 of 9)
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Quote:
Originally posted by warmonger:
I went through the same thing by driving it with the secondaries pinned open and then working normal. No apparent gain up high, but noticeable drop down low.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Pinning them open doesn't offer ANY gain up high. Why can't anybody get this through their heads?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? The few people who pulled the secondaries out, all the way, and set up the fuel and spark maps accordingly obviously "get it".

Those who ask why I didn't dyno this mod... I don't need to. I only dyno questionable mods that might only gain me a few HP. This mod did not qualify for that. wink The next mod, I probably will dyno though since I want to sell swap kits for it. Aluminum 3 liter UIM mated to the oval plastic lowers will be available as well. Why the aluminum uppers? They're portable where the plastic UIM is not. wink

Page 2 doodz! wink


Brad Noon
'99 SE MTX
3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ
BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc
BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!
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Po-Jay Offline OP
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Okay Brad, you have sparked my interest... If I remove my rods altogether and have a custome "chip" burned to keep my fuel/spark curve solid, I am gaurenteed strong results??? I do not want to go this route if it will not prove very beneficial. I have dumped much money into mods and have nuttin to show so far. Getting bummed. Can't wait for the optimized TB! wink


Po-Jay

Ghetto Mods Galore!
Quaife-CenterForce Clutch-Butterflies Rmvd and Replaced again-Bassani Exhaust w/custom "Y"-Pipe-33% of Mystery Mod-Pro M 75MM MAF-BNoon Optimized SVT TB-B+M Short Throw-ES Front Engine Mount-Some Aesthetic Crap-
Blood,Sweat,Tears
Do I hear the Fat Lady singing?
98 E0 Silver Frost (Is there any other color?)
172HP 149TQ W/Bad A/F Mix
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Quote:
Originally posted by bnoon:
Jay,

You can remove the rods without cutting them. Clean the rods with carb cleaner to remove any buildup, then slide them right out of the hole. You can use some small bolts with silicone on them to seal off the holes temporarily.

My 3 liter has enough low down torque off of idle without the secondaries to light up the tires to where I have to feather it (235/40/17's in case you were wondering). SVTJOE1's dyno was impressive as well. It takes a lot mof mods and some amount of tuning to make the gutted secondaries work well. Who cares if I might get 20-30 more below 2,000 RPM... I never drive the dang car down there anyway and the tires can't put it to the ground even if I did.

Your experience with pinned secondaries [b]SHOULD
be negative. Pinning them is just a way to see if the low end losses are worth it on your car with your mods and driving style.

Not enough velocity eh? Add on a 70mm TB and what do you get? An SE that walks modded SVTs is what I got. :p Judging by my dyno graphs, my torque is fairly flat from 3K up to just before redline, HP could use a little more air above 6K. My SE UIM is holding me waaaaaaaaay back here, as are my cams, heads, etc. Time for stage two...

FYI PA, short = high RPM HP, long = low end TQ. wink You other 3 liter guys, look at it this way... the '01 and newer 3 liters don't have pri/sec... just a large oval port. Wonder why???[/b]
You don't have svt cams though, do you?
Stock cams are reputed to provide more low-end torque anyway.

warmonger


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
Engine: 3.0 power!
Unique Stuff: Sunroof control module (#1 of 9)
Car Audio: Loaded and loud!
Check them out at
http://home.earthlink.net/~twilson1726
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Quote:
Originally posted by bnoon:
Quote:
Originally posted by warmonger:
[b] I went through the same thing by driving it with the secondaries pinned open and then working normal. No apparent gain up high, but noticeable drop down low.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Pinning them open doesn't offer ANY gain up high. Why can't anybody get this through their heads?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? The few people who pulled the secondaries out, all the way, and set up the fuel and spark maps accordingly obviously "get it".

Those who ask why I didn't dyno this mod... I don't need to. I only dyno questionable mods that might only gain me a few HP. This mod did not qualify for that. wink The next mod, I probably will dyno though since I want to sell swap kits for it. Aluminum 3 liter UIM mated to the oval plastic lowers will be available as well. Why the aluminum uppers? They're portable where the plastic UIM is not. wink

Page 2 doodz! wink [/b]
Brad, I understand the concept and yes I get it. There is nothing blocking the airflow when they are removed, so there is less restriction.
HOWEVER! It(pinning the secondaries) does suit to determine that there is a LOSS down low. This in itself was what I was after to determine. I wanted to find out if I was going to loose take-off torque, which I did. I also reported that I had no gain up top, which is to be expected (though I didn't print that).
In my case, I alread tried to compensate for the secondaries by widening the passages considerably. I have small gaps around my throttle blade plates, about 1-2mm on the sides where the shafts are. I leak a little air past each throttle plate even when they are closed.

As far as adjusting spark timing and fuel with them removed, what makes you think that is necessary? If there is a higher volume of air then the MAF will surely pick that up.
As far as spark timing: Picture driving a car up hill and lugging the engine in an older vehicle in high gear. What happens? You can make it up the hill at a constant speed at part throttle in that gear, but then you try to accelerate by opening the throttle more, and you get loss of power and possibly pinging. On a newer car you get no pinging but a loss of power because the air velocity goes down and the timing is pulled when pinging appears.

This is exactly what happens with the secondaries. Because our engines spin out 7000 rpm, there is a need for higher airflow at those higher engine speeds. At low rpm the airflow requirements are much lower.
By calculations, our engines would require 262 cfm of air at 5000rpm, but that jumps to 376 cfm
at 7000 rpm.
Therefore, I cannot see how you will get a comparable improvement in low rpm power that will equal what you loose with just spark timing adjustments.
The secondaries being removed may help high rpm flow a little, but they will NOT be a restriction for the low rpm air requirements that the engine has. Therefore all you have succeeded in doing is allowing the SAME amount of air to flow through two paths now instead of one. This means that the airflow velocity HAS to go down if the volume is constant. In the end you loose power because the velocity went down. If you keep the velocity up you get to take advantage of a small pressurization in the cylinder due to the momentum the column of air has.
OK, you can choose to remove the secondaries and improve flow above 5000 rpm, but you loose a bunch of power down low. How about keep the secondaries, but improve high rpm flow?

The shoshop (baastards that they are) had a good idea. They bored the secondary intake runners larger and installed larger throttle plates. No loss of low rpm torque and improved the flow at high rpm.
That is the proper way to solve this problem. The best of both worlds and what I did to my manifold reflects that a little bit.

*Sorry for the long post*

warmonger


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
Engine: 3.0 power!
Unique Stuff: Sunroof control module (#1 of 9)
Car Audio: Loaded and loud!
Check them out at
http://home.earthlink.net/~twilson1726
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I have SE intake cams and 3 liter exhaust cams. The 3 liter exhaust cams had slightly more duration by my measurments with a degree wheel and lobe micrometer (it has another proper name, but I forget it at the moment). The point of me listing my "torque killers" was to point out my high tq number and that it was flat.

Without the secondaries in the car, you have three choices.

1) run a return spring so the ECU doesn't throw a code. Get the stock fuel and spark advance at ~3,500.

2) let the ECU throw a code, get the fuel and spark advance at ~2,500 because the ECU thinks the secondaries are stuck open and it doesn't want to run lean.

3) unplug the IMRC box, mis the spark and fuel advance as the ECU doesn't know what's going on with the secondaries at all. The ECU reverts to "stock" maps in the ECU.

A custom chip could be programmed to get the fuel/spark maps set up for running no secondaries properly without an MIL.

The 2001 3 liters have oval ports. That's what I'm going after...


Brad Noon
'99 SE MTX
3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ
BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc
BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!
bnmotorsports@msn.com
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