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Demon, are you telling me to leave the IMRC disconnected or just remove the rods? Will removing the rods make the timimg change? I'm confused.
Eric
First I would like to congratulate my 2002 "The Perfect Storm" undefeated National Champions MIAMI HURRICANES*1999 Ford Contour SVT #206 00 SVT motor with Return fuel*Black-Tan*Cold Air Intake with 6" S&B Funnel Ram*Sho-shop off road y*Brullen Cat-Back 3.5" slant tips no res*Unorthodox racing crank pulley*Lotec Guage pod with Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure and Voltage*17" Image Tuners*215/40 Falken Ziex's*
B/M Short Shifter*Nokya 9006/9005 80w/100w Xenon's*JSP wing*BNM White Faced HVAC*Custom svt emblemed rear*Bosch +4's*H/R springs*Euro Sidemarkers.
Eric@ritterpenusa.com Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.
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To solve this little problem, someone who knows what the heck is going on just go ahead and post it in a little How-To somewhere after this post. That'll end this minor debate. Share and share alike, I always say.
'99 Contour SE V6 w/MTX (Black Clearcoat)
'02 Dakota 4.7L V8 2WD X-Cab (Flame Red Clearcoat)
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Demon, Fast4DrSVT, or whom ever....
I understand that removing the rods is the way to go, in terms of gaining HP. With that said, will someone post (photos preferred) details on how to remover the rods and more importantly, how to block the rod holes once they are gone. I have heard mention of JB Weld... I am not comfortable with that at all. I have also heard of people not filling the holes at all. That would cause turbulence that would probably negate any gains. You have to plug at least the outside holes, right?
Po-Jay
Ghetto Mods Galore!
Quaife-CenterForce Clutch-Butterflies Rmvd and Replaced again-Bassani Exhaust w/custom "Y"-Pipe-33% of Mystery Mod-Pro M 75MM MAF-BNoon Optimized SVT TB-B+M Short Throw-ES Front Engine Mount-Some Aesthetic Crap-
Blood,Sweat,Tears
Do I hear the Fat Lady singing?
98 E0 Silver Frost (Is there any other color?)
172HP 149TQ W/Bad A/F Mix
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Exactly my question, do you just cut the rods off and use some high temp sealant to seal the holes?
Eric
First I would like to congratulate my 2002 "The Perfect Storm" undefeated National Champions MIAMI HURRICANES*1999 Ford Contour SVT #206 00 SVT motor with Return fuel*Black-Tan*Cold Air Intake with 6" S&B Funnel Ram*Sho-shop off road y*Brullen Cat-Back 3.5" slant tips no res*Unorthodox racing crank pulley*Lotec Guage pod with Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure and Voltage*17" Image Tuners*215/40 Falken Ziex's*
B/M Short Shifter*Nokya 9006/9005 80w/100w Xenon's*JSP wing*BNM White Faced HVAC*Custom svt emblemed rear*Bosch +4's*H/R springs*Euro Sidemarkers.
Eric@ritterpenusa.com Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.
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Bolt and epoxy for end holes 
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Originally posted by SILVA BULLITT: Bolt and epoxy for end holes That's pretty! Yeah! 2nd page!
Po-Jay
Ghetto Mods Galore!
Quaife-CenterForce Clutch-Butterflies Rmvd and Replaced again-Bassani Exhaust w/custom "Y"-Pipe-33% of Mystery Mod-Pro M 75MM MAF-BNoon Optimized SVT TB-B+M Short Throw-ES Front Engine Mount-Some Aesthetic Crap-
Blood,Sweat,Tears
Do I hear the Fat Lady singing?
98 E0 Silver Frost (Is there any other color?)
172HP 149TQ W/Bad A/F Mix
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Originally posted by Po-Jay: Originally posted by SILVA BULLITT: [b]Bolt and epoxy for end holes
Yeah! 2nd page![/b]You shooting for pgs or information...I don't know wheather to take your comment as sarcasm but the bolt theory works and it's not like you'll ever see it... 
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Originally posted by Justin Rempe: The rods are round, right? If so, then you can't just use L x W due to a round & cylindrical object. Surface Area = 2(pi r 2) + (2 pi r)* h
God, I really HATE MATH  That's true for the ports, but not for the rods. Yes they may be round (primaries) or half circle (secondaries), but the frontal area is not. It's a set, flat distance = the diameter x the width of the port.
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Originally posted by Fast4DrSVT:
Demon, are you telling me to leave the IMRC disconnected or just remove the rods? Will removing the rods make the timimg change? I'm confused.
Eric Both. Remove the rods (93% of the obstruction) Leave the cable disconnected. (Do Not disconnect the IMRC plug) You can do that latter right now just to see the effects. The ideal way is to rig them with a switch and use a return spring. This way they can be "always open" and seen as such by the PCM, yet can be closed at start up & shut down so you don't get a CEL.
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Originally posted by Po-Jay: Originally posted by SILVA BULLITT: [b]Bolt and epoxy for end holes Screw pretty. :p You can't see them anyway. I used 2 bolts (different lengths), cut them to fit (dremel), and sealed the outside ends with gray permatex.
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