(this will help out alot on the dam dimming lights. we are also looking into making an upgraded harness that will give better power transfer and distribution, and will eliminate the grounding problem in the Ford TSB.) thank you CEG.
~Cue Co-owner/sales rep Volitile Performance
What's with the grounding problem mentioned above? From previous posts it was stated as being a direct plug in. I want in on this but as Mr. Anal, I want to know whats up with everything first. I can see the obvious advantages but I don't want any wiring problems (melted wires, hot (temperature wise) wires/junctions, blown bulbs or fuses) from a HO alternator in a car designed for a 130 amp alternator. For those who know about these things, this may be dumb questions--sorry. BTW, the local dealer wants $220 plus core for a stock one.
The Tsb realy has nothing to do with this. Not realy sure what one he is referring to anyway.
But basicly Tom the Contours electrical system can not handle the load of extra accessories, i.e. stereos, lights gauges etc.. Part of the reason being the contours wire harness. The ground wires can not handle the extra load put out. You may use a 4ga wire for your stereo and 4 ga ground for the amp, but that load is still put on the alternator that only goes through a minor 12ga wire(don't quote me on this size). Increasing the wire size or its capacity will greatly help the circuit complete its path to ground with its increased load.
The alternater being another weak link, as it now has to power all the extra accessories that you have added, on top its normal functions that it was desgined for. They take your factory alternator that you send them, and upgrade the internals and new rectifer. It bolts up to the same locations and the harness conectors are the same. You don't even have to remove the pulley.
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