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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,237
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WOT is at about 4.7V, that's what the S-AFC says anyway. I am going to try this and see what it's like on my 2000 SVT, as the timing advance on the ECU's on those cars (XGT1) is poor, to say the least!
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 407
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You've only got so much room to adjust here. Once you drill out the brass sleeves, you've pretty well limited yourself as to how much you can rotate the TPS. I suppose you could drill more out, but at some point your screw heads will go right thru the holes. I'll play with this more when I get time, but I'd like to hear of the results once WA2FAST and Aussie do this - maybe try over .935 guys  .
Black 98.5 SVT w/ KKM intake, 73mm MAF, ASP pulley, Optimized stock Y-Pipe, 24mm hollow rear sway bar, Magnaflow resonator, Magnaflow mufflers, Roush springs, KYB struts
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 256
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Hopefully I will get a chance today to do this (I should have a chance). If I do, I will try all kinds of things (obviously more than likely under .98) and will give results. Right now I am dealing with a shot IMRC  , so my car is not the best to check this with  right now. Anyway, like I said, more than likely the voltage you will want to go for is .98. You don't want to go any above that because either (depending on the car) at .99 or 1V, the car goes into different fuel tables assuming that you are "driving" it. In all of the cars that I have done this on, this voltage range is the same or close to the same and I have dealt with different brands and types of vehicles. You won't have to drill such large holes that the screw heads will go through the sensor, you don't need to worry about that, sometimes you will have to drill a considerable ammount out, but you can also ovalize the holes as opposed to drilling them larger once the metal ring is out. Trust me, you won't have to go so far as to drill the hole the same size as the screw head. Good luck to you and hopefully I can get my car taken care of today, and the damn IMRC taken care of too!!!
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 73
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HMM well i just popped my hood and i see my voltage was 4.42 or around there . . .but im a little lost .. . .935 isnt that below 1 volt......? or are we talking 9.35V
99 Contour Sport 24 valve Gutted Cat,Resignator Removed 5% Tinted Windows, Side strips removed
C10N@yahoo.com
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 73
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a thought crossed my mind as i was reading this post again ....if were talking about drilling holes to make it swing further back then WOW were talking about making that thing sit in a awful aquard position...seems really ODD ....this wont hurt anythnig ? more gas used ? ? or just better throttle response ?
99 Contour Sport 24 valve Gutted Cat,Resignator Removed 5% Tinted Windows, Side strips removed
C10N@yahoo.com
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 256
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You aren't twisting it half way around!! Once done, it isn't even noticable... if you hook up your voltage meter, you will see how touchy it is. You barely need to move it, just that the factory holes are prety much the exact size as the screws allowing it to only be installed one way since it is a "non-adjustable sensor". You just need to enlargen them a little bit to gain some adjustability.
CitatioN10, you are reading voltage on the wrong wires then. .98 is below 1 volt... there is no way your TPS voltage at closed throttle is 4.42. Verify wires and check again.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 414
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IS there a way to do this by adding some sort of transistor like the IAT resistor mod. I know a resistor will lower the voltage reading but is there some way to do this electronically so you don't have to mess with the screws...Or is it called the APEX-I. a simple transistor of some sort from Rad Shak.
98 EO #587 Currently Dirt Jumping
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Don't be afraid to do the mod... it's no big deal. You are not ruining anything on your car by doing this. Electronicaly altering voltage is possible most definately, but way more work than it's worth compared to just doing it the normal way.
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Joined: May 2001
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Sweet, now if I can get the stripped upper phillips screw loose. That is why I have not done it.
98 EO #587 Currently Dirt Jumping
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Joined: Jan 2001
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I have a question. I tried this mod today (BTW, when you poke the wires with the safty pins, dont let them touch when the ignition is on, it fried mine) When I turn the TPS clockwise, the voltage decreses, am I doing something wrong?? When i took my base numbers, i got .89v at idle, and 4.79 at WOT. After I started playing around with it, like I said before, I found that moving it clockwise decresed the voltage. I drilled the brass fittings. I reinstalled it, but this time I tried moving it counter-clockwise, and tuned it into .94 volts as a starting point. I then tightened it down, double checked for .94 volts, but this time at WOT I got 5.4 volts, which was said to be way too high. I then turned it back to .89 at idle, then check WOT and still got 5.4v. I played around with it, but was unable to get WOT to come back down to 4.79 before I fired the TPS. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong??? Thanks... -Nick
"My family hauler can kick your family hauler's @SS!" ~~~~1999 Contour SE Sport~~~~ -KKM True Rev -Custom cat back Flowmaster exhaust -All Cat's fixed. -SHO Shop Off-Road Y-pipe -Many other Mod's done...
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