Originally posted by durateX:
HID's put out 35W while normal halogen bulbs use 55w. They also run about 40% cooler than halogens since the light is not produced by electricity traveling through a metal coil thus creating enough heat to make light. They instead create light by jumping an arc over two unconnected electrodes, and keeping it burning, much like an electric welder keeps contact with the metal being welded though jumping a spark to it and keeping it lit.

On top of all of this, I believe that our stock 893 model foglamp bulbs are 37.5 watts, so a 35watt HID bulb should be even more cooler than that.



Originally posted by durateX:
On top of all of this, I believe that our stock 893 model foglamp bulbs are 37.5 watts, so a 35watt HID bulb should be even more cooler than that.



So it appears that you have done your homework... a little, and I applaud you for wanting to be different and having the desire to do something that, to my knowledge, no other CEGer, and no OEM manufacturer has ever done. But, have you taken into consideration the startup requirement for the ballasts? How much of a space do you need around the return wire on the bulb to prevent arcing? D2S or D2R? What is being used for shielding? What are you doing for wiring? What are you going to do about the yellow/green hue that always exits an HID bulb on its underside that will make the foggies have a green hue if it is not taken care of?

I fall into the catagory of one of the first few that installed HID onto their Contour, and one of the first (right up with Quicksilver and Josch, IIRC) to go for projectors. I am aware of the workings of the bulbs and the lamps that they work in. Some of the things you said just make me wonder how much you have researched this project. Saying that HID uses 35 watts where the stock foggies use 37.5 so the HID is be cooler is one of the things that makes me wonder.



This is an E-code projector which a few of us are running. Most of the projector equipped Contours are running the DOT version, but the readings will be similar, if not exact. This example is using an H7, but its D2S readings were the same. This is a very solidly built lamp, its magnesium and glass housing is going to be able to take heat better then the plastic foggies. It will spread it over the body of the lamp better, and with more surface area, will have a better chance to cool off. The 24�°C is going to be a warm spring day, but what about a hot summer day, stopped in traffic? Stock Contour foggies have melted in less then that. If airflow is not maintained at all times, the stock plastic foggie WILL MELT with anything more powerful then the stock bulb, this includes HID.

Now take into consideration the place where you are putting it. The stock foggies are not the most solidly mounted light, and are prone to their fair share of vibration. Vibration does harm a HID bulb. Granted even if its life is shortened 10%, its not going to be noticeable. What about not letting the bulb cool enough between cycles (foggies off when brights are on). Those bulbs in the foggies are constantly going to have to restrike while hot, which is also known to harm their lifespan.

I am not going to get into the beam pattern of the foggies, which is poor, even when new.

Originally posted by durateX:
I didn't say I couldn't afford the stands at any moment, I just though it would be more comfortable and convenient to take my time and install the fogs with the bumper off.



The last couple of sentences in my previous reply did come across wrong, and I am sorry for that. I am aware of the time required to aim custom lamps. Get them where you want them and then you just *need* to do something else to make them just right so the car comes back apart.

Finally, as a quick link to my reference, here you go. I can come up with others but I really do not want to dig anymore.

· Jon Miconi · Coming Soon! · 01 Cougar · 98 V70R