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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by Kane:
Originally posted by ExDelayed:
Sylvania does not make SilverStars.




Then who does?

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Silverstar/default.htm




he meant H9 silverstars




Oh... I get it now, thought he was sayin they don't make them at all.


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Okay, okay, my turn!

As Jon pointed out, the H7's are a better choice than H9's. Had I known that back then (over a year ago), I would've ordered H7's. My friend with a WRX has a Prodrive headlight conversion with H7 projectors, and the cutoff is so much sharper, and the light seems brighter (on the road)than on my H9's.

With that said, I installed both low beam H9 projectors and high beam H9 reflectors. I had to separate the lenses from the rear housings, and then cut up the rear housings to get the modules to sit just how I wanted them. I truly almost gave up a couple of times, but Jon kept me going. Here are the pictures I have on my little web area.

















As you can see, I spent a lot of time figuring out how to mount these suckers! I was on PM a lot with Jon about how to do "this and that." I even saved an email that I created which generalized the installation of these lights.

Quote:

Generic instructions:
1) Split the housing anyway you can. If you can heat them up in a oven at a low temp and soften the glue, that's the best way to do so. Other than that, you'll have to cut them on the seam.

2) Get four lights from a place that you want them from. Mine came from Susquehana Motorsports. www.rallylights.com
You will need two low beam projectors and two high beam reflectors, four H9 plugs, and I don't remember if I needed bulbs or not, but if they don't come with bulbs, four H9 bulbs.

3) You'll need to figure out how to mount the bulbs to the back of the housing, I drilled the three necessary holes for the Hella adjusters per the instructions. You'll need to be creative here in mounting the lights, and you'll have to be creative in cutting the rear of the housing in order to clear the rear of the lights. Also, when you mount the lights, make sure you mount them "correctly" because if you don't, the cutoffs for the low beams will not be level. Look at my little use of webspace http://groups.msn.com/contourstuff and look in the SVT Contour photo album for pictures of my headlights. The pictures are somewhere in the middle.

4) I obtained a pair of carbon fiber "license plates" from a friend who makes CF things. I cut those down for plates to cover up the adjusters.

5) Before you seal everything back up, you have to level the lights. Look to the internet and search for a "how to" on leveling the lights.




I had to purchase rubber caps for drainage pipes and modify them to create a seal between the rear of the housing and the rears of the H9 modules. I gutted the lights completely (removed the original, stock reflectors and all related hardware). I used rubber plugs and black silicon everywhere I thought I could, trying to plug and cover any hole left over from removing the old hardware. It stayed dry for the first year, but I now get leaking/fogging when it rains out. It takes a good day or two for the lights to air out once the weather dries. I used carbon fiber plates to hide the mounting hardware, but did not use carbon fiber to mount the lights. I just drilled the appropriate holes and JB Welded the mounts onto the housings. If needed, I can still completely adjust the aim using the Hella supplied adjusters, the lights just have to come forward to do so. Was it a pain in the A55? Yes! Was it worth it? Yes. Would I do it again? Only for myself, and then mod them to accept HID's (which I may do with these).

Originally posted by ExDelayed:
Swazo's setup is just like Skrillas. You could probably install them from behind without ever having to seperate the clear lens from the reflector assembly. Dion installed both lowbeams and highbeams onto a carbon fiber backing plate for his (looks very hot). Josch put OEM HID (A6, IIRC) into his pre-98 housings and had to clear the lens out so the fluting wouldnt throw the light everywhere. Mine are installed into modded OEM lenses. To my knowledge, I am the only one (Contour/Mystique) who has the Hellas exposed to the elements. If you want to talk to either Swazo or Dion they are in Utah or So.Cal. Milan doesnt hang around here anymore, and I doubt he would help the CEG community with this info.

If you are looking for a place to buy the projectors, 90mm DOT Hellas, the most common lamp, they even have a matching foggie. 120mm DOT lamp, this is what, IIRC, Milan used in his personal setup. P.U.M.A. doesnt list their Hellas on their website, but you can get the 90mm ECE lamps, and most likely the 120mm ECE units from them. Having gone through two sets of DOT 90mm pieces, and one set of ECE 90mm lamps, IMHO, the ECE pieces are the way to go for our cars, 98+ included. The beam pattern in tighter and the cutoff is razor sharp. Both the ECE and DOT versions will (should have) a new, flat cutoff shield created when they have HID installed.



Last edited by dion; 01/16/05 08:30 AM.

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Dion


I love you

thats my instruction manual


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Recheck it, as I made some adjustments and edited it a little.

And don't let my wife find out about your feelings for me, as she will kick your ass!


dion 98 SVT, 200 whp/190 lb. ft tq (tuned by ADC), 3.0, P&P heads w/2.5L valves, optimized TB, MSDS, SCA 2.5" catback, SHOshop UIM/LIM, underdrive pulley set, TD's, Koni/H&R, BAER/TCE, Progress, CF1 products
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Originally posted by dion:
Okay, okay, my turn!


3) You'll need to figure out how to mount the bulbs to the back of the housing, I drilled the three necessary holes for the Hella adjusters per the instructions. You'll need to be creative hear in mounting the lights, and you'll have to be creative in cutting the rear of the housing in order to clear the rear of the lights. Also, when you mount hte lights, make sure you mount them "correctly" because if you don't, the cutoffs for the low beams will be be level. Look at my little use of webspace http://groups.msn.com/contourstuff and look in the SVT Contour photo album for pictures of my headlights. The pictures are somewhere in the middle.








I didnt find the pics


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Originally posted by dion:
Recheck it, as I made some adjustments and edited it a little




the problem with my project is that I'm keeping the highs and only having projectors in the lows, I dunno how thats gonna work out cause you totally took off the reflectors


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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by dion:
Okay, okay, my turn!


3) You'll need to figure out how to mount the bulbs to the back of the housing, I drilled the three necessary holes for the Hella adjusters per the instructions. You'll need to be creative hear in mounting the lights, and you'll have to be creative in cutting the rear of the housing in order to clear the rear of the lights. Also, when you mount hte lights, make sure you mount them "correctly" because if you don't, the cutoffs for the low beams will be be level. Look at my little use of webspace http://groups.msn.com/contourstuff and look in the SVT Contour photo album for pictures of my headlights. The pictures are somewhere in the middle.




I didnt find the pics



You have to click on "pictures" which is located on the left side of the screen. From there, scroll down to "SVT Contours" and click on that album.

As for keeping the stock highbeams, you'll have to follow Swazo's way of installing the Hella's rather than mine. I wanted to do both because the Hella highbeams just completely blow away the stock highbeams.


dion 98 SVT, 200 whp/190 lb. ft tq (tuned by ADC), 3.0, P&P heads w/2.5L valves, optimized TB, MSDS, SCA 2.5" catback, SHOshop UIM/LIM, underdrive pulley set, TD's, Koni/H&R, BAER/TCE, Progress, CF1 products
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k got it, thanks!


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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
the problem with my project is that I'm keeping the highs and only having projectors in the lows, I dunno how thats gonna work out cause you totally took off the reflectors




Then look into mounting the projector into the reflector area of the lowbeam. You would have to aim the lights once without having the covers on, and you would have to aim your highbeams and correct the lowbeams to that (assuming you are able to keep the stock aiming mechanism).

I really need to get me a 98+ lamp to mess around with so I can say what will and wont work at lot easier.

And Dion, I found out about the H7s when a rock took out one of my H9s last winter. I was just curious and wanted to see that the ECE pattern was like, gave up the extra cash and was pleasantly suprised. They can be changed later as they have the same footprint (adjuster mounts) as the H9s. I popped the old ones off and the new ones went on.


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nice pics dion, As others are saying i really need to get these done now.


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