|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 253
CEG\'er
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 253 |
Originally posted by pdqford:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
There are two large main mounting bolts that hold the alternator in place. You found the lower one, but I think you might have missed the upper main mounting bolt.
No, I got the upper main 13mm bolt out first (which wasn't very clear in my first post - sorry). Since I have the valve covers off I was able to reach down between the rear bank and the firewall and remove that raskel. 
But the alternator seems to be held fast to the alt-bracket. Maybe I'm gonna have to completely remove the lower main bolt. It is backed out about 4-5 turns now, hoping that it would keep the alternator from falling all the way out. I want to just tip the alternator, pivoting it on the lower bolt - then I should be able to get at the upper bolt that holds the alt-bracket to the block. But she no pivot - maybe its rusted into the alt-bracket?
I understand what you're trying to do. Let me say that work on the alternator is a major pain, I've removed mine twice.
In addition to the two main bolts, of which you only want to remove one, I seem to remember another little bolt/bracket deal on the back (opposite side of the pulley)
from the how-to: The last thing to worry about is the small bracket (10mm) that attaches to the alt and to the block.
So to accomplish your goal, remove the top bolt, all the wiring, and the little bracket on the alt. It will still be very difficult to swing on the last bolt because the ears are weged in very tight, but once its out, it should rotate kinda easily. Hopefully this helps, oh, and get a Haynes repair manual, or even the CD rom for sale around these boards.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 94
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 94 |
Originally posted by miller542:
I understand what you're trying to do.
Ahhh! Thank You miller542! Some times I think I'm talking to myself on this board. 
So I'm now waiting for another warm, well, not 'warm', but at least a day above freezing, to try and tip that alternator out of the alt-bracket and get on with this project. Thanks again for your explanation.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065 |
OH that FRONT COVER. Christ...pull the engine! 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 253
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 253 |
Originally posted by pdqford:
Originally posted by miller542:
I understand what you're trying to do.
Ahhh! Thank You miller542! Some times I think I'm talking to myself on this board.
So I'm now waiting for another warm, well, not 'warm', but at least a day above freezing, to try and tip that alternator out of the alt-bracket and get on with this project. Thanks again for your explanation.
Also, since it is off anyway, install a DMD in place of the old crankshaft pulley if you haven't already. They DO make a difference.
I can understand just pulling off the cover, but if it is something big, you may be better off pulling the engine as suggested above. Can't help you there, though, I've never done that.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by pdqford:
I included the ATX because someone suggested removing the driver's side front wheel and to use a 42" extension to get at the alternator bolts. (I don't know if that will work on a MTX car, but it ain't gonna happen on an ATX car!)
The upper bolt is the only one you'll need to use that trick on. I have two ATX 'Tours, I've done it with my ATX Duratec to change the alternator so I have practical experience doing exactly that - it's the only practical way to get at that bolt.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
