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thanks, I agree on the need for the kits whether I continually adjust, it was unclear wording on my part.

The second question about need based on not always adjusting was relative to that magnetic camber measure tool they sell for 70 plus dollars. its pricey but I was trying to figure out if it would save another $85 alignment.

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Originally posted by Fordowner:
thanks, I agree on the need for the kits whether I continually adjust, it was unclear wording on my part.

The second question about need based on not always adjusting was relative to that magnetic camber measure tool they sell for 70 plus dollars. its pricey but I was trying to figure out if it would save another $85 alignment.




IMHO, that camber tool is OK for a quick check, but you need other measurement devices to figure out toe and caster, and then you need some way to make the adjustments with the wheels on the ground...

Kind of not worth it, if you ask me. Just install the parts and get a proper alignment from a pro.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Thanks. That make sense.

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Originally posted by RogerB:

This company makes these pieces for other retailers, including BAT. It is the same piece.





I was wrong.

Prosuspension (the Ebay seller) doesn't make them. A company called "Specialty Products Company" or some such does, but it is the same piece BAT sells. Just wanted to clear that up.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Thanks, I saw the thread about the $88 and posted there. Not sure that is a retail price, but I'm still happy with the $118.

Was reading through old posts on the Koni and Ground Control option. Interesting the things I find out, apparently a lot of SVT or Contour owners have done this. Looking at how it works it looks like I should be able to replace the Koni and reuse the Ground Control part as it slides on to the strut.

The right front feels harder and doesn't seem to have as much play so I'm thinking perhaps the Koni's valving is shut and thus I better do a replacement. The hacksaw cutting looks like something I can handle.

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I just had to replace a right hand Koni strut because of road damage. Koni would NOT sell me just one strut... had to buy two.

Also, get directions on seting the struts, they may not be bad. Start with the strut adjustment screw fully clockwise (should be "softest" position. A quarter-turn counter clockwise should give you good road compensation. My struts say NEVER to go beyond 3/4 counter clockwise.

Check your bearings and upper strut mounts. I found that in my car the bearings were bad.. had to be replaced before adding the caster plates.


- Rich LBC Performance Motorsports Group/AMSOIL '98 Cougar V6 ATX aka 'Candy Striper' Photos
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Interesting about the requirement for two, it looks like tirerack will sell just one Koni. Though since I have no idea how old the koni's on the car are I wonder if replacing just one makes sense, or if I should replace both front ones.

Regarding adjusting, I didn't say it in that last post but had mentioned it at the begining, the koni I'm looking to replace is missing the adjusting nut on the top, that top area where it goes through the bolt is somewhat mangled and that side feels stiffer so I suspect the valve may be shut. Also when I purchased this car the tie rods inner and outer on that side (passenger side) had to be replaced as they had gotten the "sockets" (i think), all loose or stripped out.

I sent an email to Koni asking if these things have strut inserts, ie. does that outer sleeve, the piece with the collar and braces to attach to the car, come apart from the inside?

They had previously emailed me in regards to the adjusting bolt on the top with the idea that I contact tire rack to see about getting a new "strut insert"

Last edited by Fordowner; 12/21/04 07:59 PM.
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