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Joined: Jun 2000
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I will let your explaination slide but next time I wanna see numbers, hard data you know...... :p hehe


Just call me Judge.
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Life begins at 170mph...until that point it is just boring.....
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uRiDiAN Offline OP
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that sounds quite interesting. so theoretically, rather than trimetal bearings, i could get the new damper and an accusump, spend less on the two than i would the bearings, and have a more predictable/reliable high rpm range? perhaps by the time whoever it was that installed the new damper has tested it thoroughly, i will have the cash to start making these mods.

then of course i get thinking, that if the stroke on the 3.0L is the same as the 2.5L, why not rev THAT engine to 7500-8000... imagine making 200+tq at 7800rpm... mmmm

uRiDiAN

***EDIT because i have the attention span of a fork***


1999 Cougar V6 Rio Red MTX
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"so theoretically, rather than trimetal bearings, i
could get the new damper and an accusump, spend less on the two than i
would the bearings, and have a more predictable/reliable high rpm range?"

Not sure you can say that. I "think" that optimal would be all 3 - damper upgrade, trimetal bearings, Accusump. In a sense, they have different roles but maybe same result (less spun bearings).. damper may reduce crank whip, trimetal bearings deal with crank whip better, accusump assures oil at bearings at all times (high RPM, high g load). Do not know which is preferable. I think if I were building a short block for power/high RPM, I would do the trimetal bearings, damper, Accusump, as well as billet rods, maybe more). But for those of us that are NOT doing an engine teardown & rebuild but want to improve Duratec survival odds at any RPM, the new damper seems cheap insurance. An extra 0.5 quarts oil in sump may help oil situation but Accusump is better.


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760)
Stock SVT Duratec V6 with:
Intake- K&N filter/75mm MAF meter
Exhaust- MSDS Y-pipe/Bassani catback
Durability-Ford "dual mode" damper, Mobil 1/K&N oil filter
179.2 FWHP at 6900 RPM
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uRiDiAN Offline OP
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yeah, that i assumed... and if i end up dropping the 3.0 in and trying to get that to rev high, then i will probably do all 3, but if i decide to just go with the 2.5, then i'd likely do the new damper and accusump until something breaks, then use that as an excuse to get billet rods, redo the bearings, etc. basically build the crap out of it...

of course, none of this will be in the immediate future, i've got to get out from under my bills first... heh.

and i'll have to do some more research on the 3.0 as well, but you've all given me tons of useful information.

thanks,
uRiDiAN


1999 Cougar V6 Rio Red MTX
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