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Re: Can't get ball joint into knuckle
#1128217 02/16/05 01:44 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 862
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96mercury Offline
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96mercury
Veteran CEG\'er
9
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 862
I have disconnected them several times and found it easiest to remove the two subframe bolts and push the subframe down a bit. Saves lots of time and frustration. Then just connect the ball joint use a jack to raise the subframe and reinstall the bolts. Get an alignment when your down as complete ball joint (not just removal of the pinch bolt) R&R always affects alignment.

ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
Re: Can't get ball joint into knuckle
#1128218 02/16/05 01:59 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867
Wichita, KS
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RogerB_dup1 Offline
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RogerB_dup1
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Wichita, KS
Originally posted by csvt_33:
When I did mine 'bout a month ago. I just replaced the lower ball joint. By the time I had everything apart the boot was ripped anyway, and w/80K I figured why not do it now rather than have to do the whole ordeal over. They're like $25 from BAT or $30 from Autozone. The beauty is, after getting the old one off, you can get the shaft in the knuckle first and tighten pinch bolt. Then take large scratch awl or phillips screwdiver to line up center bolthole and get the first 2 bolts in. Much easier and prolly a good investment if you have any sorta milage on car



Well, at 80k, your LCA bushings are probably shot, too. Might as well replace the whole control arm.

Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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