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Joined: Dec 2004
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Hi. Nice to be on this site! I've previously posted to the Contour list. My car has reached 60K and is running great. My husband and I (mostly him I admit) have replaced plugs and points, fixed external water leaks, and replaced sensors, among many other things. We're looking for opinions on whether the following should be done at 60K and/or when/how often they should be done. Don't find info about this in manuals... Thank you!
Change power steering fluid? Change fluid in manual transmission or transaxle? Change differential oil? Grease front ball joints? Repack wheel bearings?
Just one other question. According to our manuals it appears there should be a front shield between the manifold and the front of car. My car doesn�t have one. Should one be there? Should I replace it if so?
Thank you very much! Just want to keep her running great... Lynn Electric red '95 Contour SE MTX "Ferret II"
Lynn
'95 Contour SE MTX, electric red, "Ferret II"
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Lynn McIntosh: 1 Change power steering fluid? 2 Change fluid in manual transmission or transaxle? 3 Change differential oil? 4 Grease front ball joints? 5 Repack wheel bearings?
6 According to our manuals it appears there should be a front shield between the manifold and the front of car. My car doesn�t have one.
Hi Lynn, the List is still around BTW 
1. Yes 2. Yes 3. No, covered in 2 4. You can't, but given the age of the car I would inspect them and possibly replace the arms. that will also take care of control arm bushings (control arms are $105 each though) 5. replace when the go. 6. no idea what you are talking about.
welcome back
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hi Lynn,
Welcome back.
The power steering fluid should be changed when it is no longer bright red. The factory fill is automatic transmission fluid. If it hasn't been done yet it is probably due. Use Dexron III/Mercon fluid.
I change the fluid in my manual trans every 30,000 miles. The factory says that it is lifetime fluid. There are better fluids for it than the factory fill. A search would give you most of the options and their opinions as to why. The factory fill is also automatic transmission fluid, Dexron III/Mercon. I have two favorites, one on each extreem of the expense line. The Chrysler spec ATF+3 is nearly the same thing as Mercon but has additives built in that will greatly improve overall shift quality. It is only slightly more expensive than regular ATF. The other is the newr Ford honey colored synthetic manual trans fluid that works best with adding 2 oz of Ford friction modifier. This runs about $20.00 a quart (2.7 needed) plus about $6.00 for a 4 oz bottle of friction modifier. I think the Ford synthetic works only slightly better than the ATF+3.
The differential is included in the manual trans on this car and when you change the trans fluid you will be changing the differnetial fluid too.
The ball joints are sealed and there is no need to grease them and no way to grease them.
The wheel bearings are also sealed and greased for life.
If you are talking about the shield above the front valve cover on the engine, it is just there for looks and doesn't really need to be replaced. The only real reason I can see for keeping it would be that it does provide some protection for the water pump belt.
If you are talking about the shield below and behind the front bumper it also isn't really needed. Ford quit using it in about 1999. I does keep water from splashing on the horns though.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,085
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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[quote=Big Jim If you are talking about the shield below and behind the front bumper it also isn't really needed. Ford quit using it in about 1999. I does keep water from splashing on the horns though.
And I thought it was there just to piss me off.......
2012 Lotus Evora
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95 Mystique MTX - GONE 395,000 Kms
--------- Both Zetecs
'97 Contour Mtx - stock - GONE
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Joined: Apr 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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This should give a general idea of a maintenance schedule.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,725
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Here is my Howto for the power steering fluid flush, I think I did this around 62k the fluid was black.
Tools you need
- needle nose pliers/vice grip - drain pan - 5/8 hose clamp, screw type works best - 3 quarts of Automatic Transmission Fluid type "F" for the 95s-96s, not sure on other years, maybe Mercon - duct tape - funnel - trash bag - friend to help you - towels - Phillips screwdriver Okay the first thing you need to do is set the drainpan under the car, you should set it about where the reservoir is, then put the trash bag on the side of the car to prevent fluid from getting on your car. Secondly you need to remove the power steering reservoir cap. Using the vise grip pliers brake away the clamp that is attached to the power steering hose that runs parallel to the firewall, just go ahead and get the clamp off anyway possible. When you get the clamp off, you need to take the needle nose pliers, and force off the hose. When it comes off cover the white end from the reservoir where it came off with the duct tape.
Now set the funnel in the reservoir. Have your friend start the car but tell him not to turn the wheel. After 30 seconds of having fluid flow out have them shut it off. Okay get the fluid ready, have them start the car and turn the wheel gently, as they are doing this old fluid will be coming out of the hose so you need to pour new fluid in fast. If at any time you hear a groaning sound have them shut the car immediately, you wernt pouring fluid fast enough, if they continue to turn the wheel while it groans you will be replacing power steering components! With the car off fill to the max line, then have them restart. You need it so they can turn the wheel to the left and right all the way without having any groaning sound. When they can do that, reconnect the hose, but first slide the clamp on it. Get the hose over the white thing completely so it touches the reservoir, now tighten the clamp tight, get it pretty tight to as you dont want it to come loosen. Fill the reservoir a bit above the Max, as it might drop a bit, mine did. Keep an eye on the fluid for day or two.
Now if you got fluid on the firewall and on the drivebelt and such you can rinse it off carefully, cover the alternator with a plastic bag because that thing shouldnt get wet, with the hose on gently spray spots where the fluid is. I used a wet rag and just scrubbed it off the firewall and off the power steering reservoir as you have to be careful not to let the power steering fluid get water mixed in because it will contaminate it.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 383
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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If it's a V6, go ahead and change the water pump now.
Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6
â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94
Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion
KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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Joined: Dec 2004
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New CEG\'er
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Hi Alex! Thanks for the info!
Regarding #6, I meant to write the front "exhaust manifold heat shield", but just wrote "shield". It appears that the top part of the heat shield is there, the part that covers the water pump belt. But the bottom part, the flat part that would hang about 8-12 includes deeper down, is gone.
It seems there's general consensus that it's time change both the power steering and the transmission fluid. I have three different maintenance schedules (Ford's original book, Chilton's, Haynes) and none of them mention this so I'm glad my husband suggested it. (The points and plugs are supposed to go to 100K, of course, but they were gone a few thousand back.)
Janos also says it's definitely time to flush the brake system, which hasn't ever been done, so I didn't ask about that. Thanks again! It's good to be back. Lynn ('95 Contour SE MTX, electric red, "Ferret II")
Lynn
'95 Contour SE MTX, electric red, "Ferret II"
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Joined: Dec 2004
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New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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Originally posted by MFE: If it's a V6, go ahead and change the water pump now.
Thanks for thinking of this! It's such a major thing with these cars. Thanks to the CEGers I knew to change it out before disaster struck. I started getting nervous around 50K though, so did it awhile back. I can't recall if we decided on the whole or partial pump, but I'm pretty sure we went with one with a metal impellor. My husband still sort of laments about how great of shape the old pump seemed to be in, but I just remind him how "fun" it would be to drop in a whole new engine... Lynn ('95 Contour SE MTX, electric red, "Ferret II")
Lynn
'95 Contour SE MTX, electric red, "Ferret II"
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Lynn, the plastic shield is not exhaust manifold shield, that's for sure. none of my cars had anything hanging down from there even the very early '96 I originally had. Whatever that was it was not there for speed, so forget it Since you are kind of new here, let me give you a quick tour. Questions are best answered in specific forums, so for example your post belonged in Duratec maintenance almost entirely. As SVT PETE suggested, most of the schedule information is already collected in a "pinned" thread. Plus there is lesser chance of running into resident clowns who push their power steering howto in every remotely relevant thread.  Regarding your brake flush: check Brakes forum for information on the best fluid, pads and rotors of choice. Same w/ MTX fluid change. There is plenty of info available on what fluids work best (and not all are created equal, so better check first). You'll soon recognize all familiar faces, for example Big Jim who answered much better than me and now feels left out I'm sure
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