Originally posted by lauraq:
I would look into the wiring thing before doing anything else. Why fix something that isn't broke but thats just me and what do I know.


Quite a bit, judging from your other posts!! Okay, sucking up to CEG members session is over

Originally posted by lauraq:
I think Mark is correct about a recall and if I remember correctly it was for the wiring and stuff. You should look into that and maybe save yourself some money. As for the WP I think you can get them at UAP but it was my understanding that WP's don't slowly go bad, they either work or they don't.



I found out about the recall. Firstly, its not outstanding on my car, according to Ford. (Got all the outstanding recalls done when I bought the car, including that stoopid clunking spring fix for the front suspension, so I have now a lot of faith in Ford! )

In any event, I think it's been done already, since there is a blue resistor (?) block at the bottom drivers side of the radiator, which I believe was the fix.

I haven't the know-how or facilities to do a proper test so far, but I think I know what I'm supposed to do to check it, according to the searches.
If I ask some questions in other forums, the search/tech nazis would be all over me! I'm not dumb with house wiring, or wiring in general, but car wiring diagnostics is something else entirely, and new to me. 'Testing voltages' is fine advice (I know that), but I need more along the noob lines of 'where to put the probes' kind of advice, and some of those guys (not the Eastern Canucks of course) get shirty with that level of inexperience, like 'take it to a dealer' or 'you're too dumb to own a car' kinda thing.

So, to test I think I need to do the following:
First, I need to see if the fans still spin easily, with a finger or a screwdriver. They do.
Second, I need to check the fuses and relays. Well, the big 60A fuse is still fine, but I don't know how to check the relays electrically. Are they all the same, and interchangeable? If so, I could swap them over to test them.
Next, I need to hook up the fan direct to the battery, to confirm it still turns right?
Then it becomes a test of continuity for each wire in the harness. Given that the cable casing is tissue paper, I really dont wanna futz with it too much.
Finally, if all that is right, I think there's a temp sender for the fan under the UIM, is there not? And that scares me. In any event, though the AC is empty, it should still spin the passenger side fan when its on, right? (It doesn't now)

I was gonna wimp out, and get someone else to do it/help me, either professionally for cash, or for the challenge (anyone up for it - beer/pizza is on me?) or a combination.

Either way, cool weather helps the rad cool the coolant at the moment, but I want to address this before it gets warmer in spring. Just don't wanna do any damage if it masking a weak pump.

BTW, on some forums, I heard that a pump can 'sort of' fail, and still circulate, such as a badly cracked and therefore partially spinning impellar. Does that make sense?

Cheers,
T