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Originally posted by Bradness:
My experience with solid front A-arm bushings is big time harshness on street type roads, especially where winter includes snow, slush, salt, potholes, snowplows, etc.
DUH! I didn't think about that. In Las Vegas we don't have snow, slush, etc., we just have 24/7/365 road construction!
I agree with dion, I�m interested if you do a set with neoprene bushings. But you have got to do better than $499! I�m sure that you can cut $100 from the price if you swap the expensive Heim joints for neoprene bushings. Make the lower control arms with neoprene bushings at $400 a set and I�ll buy one set for sure and maybe two.
The Original Owner of 1998 SVT Contour #3384 of 6535,
Toreador Red/Midnight Blue, Assembled September 3rd, 1997
Also the Original Owner of a 1998.5 Contour SE Sport V6 5-speed,
Vibrant White/Greystone Sport Cloth, Assembled August 6th, 1998
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i do not have the money right now but if i did i would be interested with the hiem joints even though this is my daily driver.
00 black/tan svt, #2052 of 2150, born 2/1/00
formerly known as my csvt
"Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
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Originally posted by GForceAuto:
Now, I need to know who is SERIOUSLY interested, and for now we'll say the price will run $499 for the pair. It may change during production process.
So let me know if you're interested, if not let me know why you're not interested.
--Adam
1. RG
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Originally posted by GForceAuto:
So let me know if you're interested, if not let me know why you're not interested.
--Adam
Not. It's overkill for my needs/budget. I'm an occasional autocrosser, but I have to keep the car streetable.
I'm also leery of tightening up the front end. Seems to me that I would induce more understeer. Only way these would be good is if I boxed in the rear control arms, and used tubular rear toe-control arms and put solid joints all over the rear end, to boot.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by GForceAuto:
So let me know if you're interested, if not let me know why you're not interested.
--Adam
Not. It's overkill for my needs/budget. I'm an occasional autocrosser, but I have to keep the car streetable.
I'm also leery of tightening up the front end. Seems to me that I would induce more understeer. Only way these would be good is if I boxed in the rear control arms, and used tubular rear toe-control arms and put solid joints all over the rear end, to boot.
You mean like this...Tubular rear toe-control arms http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=susp&Number=665614&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1
Originally posted by NVSVT:
I agree with dion, I�m interested if you do a set with neoprene bushings. But you have got to do better than $499! I�m sure that you can cut $100 from the price if you swap the expensive Heim joints for neoprene bushings. Make the lower control arms with neoprene bushings at $400 a set and I�ll buy one set for sure and maybe two.
As for the price...don't get me wrong I would like a lower price as well but, look at some other car prices for tubular lower control arms and you will see that the price is pretty much in line especially for the low demand on the Contour. Example: at Summit... Hotchkis Tubular A-Arm for GM A&G body $516. Now for the Mustang QA1 Motorsports offers ECO Street Tubular Front Control Arms for $170 and Pro-Comp Tubular Front Control Arms for $350 but supply and demand play a BIG part here.
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
#1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 
2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Originally posted by scottd60:
Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by GForceAuto:
So let me know if you're interested, if not let me know why you're not interested.
--Adam
Not. It's overkill for my needs/budget. I'm an occasional autocrosser, but I have to keep the car streetable.
I'm also leery of tightening up the front end. Seems to me that I would induce more understeer. Only way these would be good is if I boxed in the rear control arms, and used tubular rear toe-control arms and put solid joints all over the rear end, to boot.
You mean like this...Tubular rear toe-control arms http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=susp&Number=665614&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1
Originally posted by NVSVT:
I agree with dion, I�m interested if you do a set with neoprene bushings. But you have got to do better than $499! I�m sure that you can cut $100 from the price if you swap the expensive Heim joints for neoprene bushings. Make the lower control arms with neoprene bushings at $400 a set and I�ll buy one set for sure and maybe two.
As for the price...don't get me wrong I would like a lower price as well but, look at some other car prices for tubular lower control arms and you will see that the price is pretty much in line especially for the low demand on the Contour. Example: at Summit... Hotchkis Tubular A-Arm for GM A&G body $516. Now for the Mustang QA1 Motorsports offers ECO Street Tubular Front Control Arms for $170 and Pro-Comp Tubular Front Control Arms for $350 but supply and demand play a BIG part here.
Yes, I mean those toe-control arms precisely, and no, I'm not saying that GForce should offer their product at a lower price.
I'm saying that this is a serious piece of equipment that should be accompanied by other modifications and parts that, in total, will run to a very high dollar amount, and that the end result will be barely suitable as a daily driver.
I'm saying that, if anything, I wish someone would offer a streetable improvement over the stock piece that would be more durable and amenable to lowering. (Presently, lowering the car puts the bonded rubber bushings in constant flex=rapid deterioration.) I know TH has been working on this/promising this for a long time, but has been too busy with other projects to get it done. I can't wait anymore. My suspension is shot and I'm upgrading it this spring.
Last edited by RogerB; 12/17/04 06:05 PM.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Having a car with limited options sucks. I have a set of the Tubular rear toe-arms on order and plan to box-in my own rear lower control arms and replace the bushings with urethane. I'm looking to do Energy Suspension bushings all around as well. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed hoping the ride isn't to harsh. For the most part I'm not worried about it since I rarely have any passengers (wife won't ride in it unless she really has to). I would much rather have the performance then a comfortable ride for the most part.
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
#1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods
2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Originally posted by scottd60:
I'm looking to do Energy Suspension bushings all around as well. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed hoping the ride isn't to harsh.
They don't make bushings for the front LCAs.
The rears made no noticeable difference on my car but I had to give them a shot for the price. The rear arms are just too weak IMO. (very thin stamped steel)
The rear needs the most help IMO. The more stable the rear is the more stable the entire car is in the corners.
Stiffer front LCA's will help maintain geometry when under tremendous load but that's very unlikely to ever come from street tires.
IMO even with racing slicks the worst the deflection will give is more understeer. That can be compensated for more easily then less stable rear oversteer from flexing or bending rear arms & bushings.
So personally I would not add unsprung weight just to have stiffer front LCAs.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by scottd60:
I'm looking to do Energy Suspension bushings all around as well. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed hoping the ride isn't to harsh.
They don't make bushings for the front LCAs.
The rears made no noticeable difference on my car but I had to give them a shot for the price. The rear arms are just too weak IMO. (very thin stamped steel)
The rear needs the most help IMO. The more stable the rear is the more stable the entire car is in the corners.
Did you try and box the stock rear control arms ? I know they are flimsy but if I box them in I think it will help quite a bit. Then maybe the bushings will also help out. I figure it's worth a try. They can only be better afterwards.
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
#1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods
2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Originally posted by scottd60:
Did you try and box the stock rear control arms ? I know they are flimsy but if I box them in I think it will help quite a bit. Then maybe the bushings will also help out.
I figure it's worth a try. They can only be better afterwards.
Not necessarily...
I would not want to even touch them with heat personally. Either front or rear for that matter. IMO it would be easier to just make aluminum rear replacements then to try and weld the stock pieces with any success.
I added more rubber inserts to them. (yippee )
I almost just "filled" them with 94A but I did not have enough.. I only bought 2lbs and that did the two roll resistors, the empty spots in the trans & engine mounts, and the front LCAs.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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