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I have a Turbo on my 3.0yamahahammer Taurus. Pushing about 29psi SHO TIME BABY!!


damn back to reality....


Is this kid foreal? lol

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No.

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.......... .................




right

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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
Not that the MTX-75 would last any longer at all...

MTX-75 <----- WEAK!



It's stronger then HD axles...




Only when the diff is upgraded. Then come the axles... After that, it's shear the ring/pinion time... not to mention all of the syncro troubles.

IMHO, I would put a tranny cooler, converter, and some line pressure increases in that Taurus and call it a day.


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Originally posted by bnoon:


IMHO, I would put a tranny cooler, converter, and some line pressure increases in that Taurus and call it a day.




been there done that


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Originally posted by bnoon:
Only when the diff is upgraded. Then come the axles... After that, it's shear the ring/pinion time... not to mention all of the syncro troubles.

IMHO, I would put a tranny cooler, converter, and some line pressure increases in that Taurus and call it a day.



I would think you'd lose first gear long before you lunched that beefy ring gear.

The upgraded syncros are decent but yes not spectacular if you are using them with a fast revving engine and a lightened flywheel.
Original syncro revisions.


I agree on the slushbox mods...

I would also have quicker T/C lockup added to the chip when you where in there changing line pressure and of course the shift points.


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Was it Mumms or Capaldi that was stripping gears once they had the diff and axels upgraded?

Anyway, if you stick with the ATX then you are going to want a torque converter that has an anti-ballooning plate or it will fail in no time.


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Originally posted by Swazo:



Anyway, if you stick with the ATX then you are going to want a torque converter that has an anti-ballooning plate or it will fail in no time.




makes me wonder if my TC was failing because of the no-name company that modded it for a higher stall, or jsut because of the anti-ballooning plate??


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M'eh, you honestly get what you pay for. Higher stall speed means more heat. What features did it have compared to Level 10?

The anti-ballooning plate is for use when you will use nitrous for the most part. Auto's don't like the kick of extra power they aren't used to seeing all the time.


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Originally posted by Swazo:
M'eh, you honestly get what you pay for. Higher stall speed means more heat. What features did it have compared to Level 10?






just the higher stall speed.

i went with them because they were half the price of level 10

instead of getting a new converter i swapped to a mtx


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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