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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Any auto parts store has it. I bought my last bottle from Pep Boys. The most common brand is Permatex (and I think they make it for private brand labels too). It can be found stocked with gasket sealer and the like. You can get a small tube for about two or three dollars that will probably last a long time for most home mechanics. You can also get an 8 oz bottle for about six or eight dollars with a brush attached to the cap that may keep things a bit neater.
I also use it on spark plug threads when installing spark plugs in aluminum heads. If you find that your alloy wheels sometimes tend to stick to the brake drum or rotor making them hard to remove, a gentle amount between the wheel and the hub flange also helps. I also use it on the wheel studs. One gentle application will last for many, many tire rotations.
According to the label, it is good for -68F to 1600F, or -55C to 870C.
Other uses posted on the label include:
Brake lube assembly and anchor pins (I don't use it for this, I prefer disc brake lube),
Engine head bolts,
Oxygen sensor threads,
Exhaust manifold studs,
EGR fittings,
Starter and alternator bolts.
Look it up on the Permatex web site if you wish additional info.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230 |
Originally posted by chill1110:
So am i getting this straight? this anti-seize stuff will prevent the roters from getting that damn rust film on them? I just posted this question in another forum and everyone said it is just a "natural problem"..nothing can really fix it. Zinc coated will prevent rust for a little while but it eventually wears off. So where do you buy this stuff and how do you go about applying it to the rotor? Im assuming you will need to remove the rotors and put it just on the face facing the wheel (this side you see when looking through the wheel spokes). Is it a thin fluid type of material so it does not fill the slotted and ported rotors?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768 |
Quote:
So am i getting this straight? this anti-seize stuff will prevent the roters from getting that damn rust film on them? ... Is it a thin fluid type of material so it does not fill the slotted and ported rotors?
is it just me or you are asking about the working surface of the rotor?
antiseize compound is applied to the surface mating the hub or the surface mating the wheel, as Big Jim indicated. It must not be applied to the working surface of the rotor. If you are lucky it will wear off, and the rotors will still rust; if you are not, you will have a very short ride in the car, and a longer one in the ambulance.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397 |
Stazi,
My understanding is that anti sieze is thinner becuase it's made for threads. Moly is a bit thicker and made for all other metal to metal contact surfaces.
The reason I say it burned off was becuase I put it on the exposed threads of my exhaust bolts after installing the factory y-pipe. I didn't use any other chemicals, and half way home I smelled burn-off in the cabin of my car.
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223
"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223 |
Originally posted by Andy W.:
Stazi,
My understanding is that anti sieze is thinner becuase it's made for threads. Moly is a bit thicker and made for all other metal to metal contact surfaces.
The reason I say it burned off was becuase I put it on the exposed threads of my exhaust bolts after installing the factory y-pipe. I didn't use any other chemicals, and half way home I smelled burn-off in the cabin of my car.
-Andy
In the case of the rotor to hub interface, you want it as thin as possible to avoid DTV issues.
Burn-off on exhaust components is typical whenever you've handled them at all. The oils from your hands or from gloves gets on the piping and has to burn off. This is normal, and was probably totally unrelated to the anti-seize.
I should make it clear though, that you DO NOT want to get anti-seize on the working surface of the rotor. it will eventually scuff off, but, it may affect your braking ability for a bit after putting the corner back together.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230 |
Thanks alex 96 gl, ya I'm not familair w/ that type of product so thanks for giving me the heads up. I just was wondering what could be used to keep the ugly rust from acumulating on the rotor (the part you see when you look through the wheel) Guess i'll have to buy some zinc plated rotors...they will last rust free for a little longer.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397 |
You can't prevent the contact surfaces from superficial rust without oiling them everytime you stop. And in turn the oil would ruin your pads.
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 337
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 337 |
Just get a can of BBQ black paint and put a couple of coats on the hub/hat area, tape off the working surface reasonably well and wipe off any excess with some accetone when you're done.
You can do the fins and ends too if you want.
I think you're making a bigger deal out of this than it really is. Any high temp paint will work if you like red as well.
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Todd,
I think this post departed from the original concern - rotors rusting onto the actual hub, and for that, a coat of anti-seize on the hub (not the wheel face) works best.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 337
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 337 |
I think your'e right! My bad.
I did pull off the rotors on a Magnum yesterday and they have some grease between the surfaces. And I do know the Marauder comes with some antisieze on the hub- in a nice groove. Good attention to detial guys!
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