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Joined: Oct 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is... 
I had to tear the other side apart and knock it out with a center punch.
There is a small pass through hole in the differential.
Just thinking, couldnt you drill a hole in the part that broke. Tap it and use one of those body punches to pop it out? 
I know what a pain in the azz it is to pull an axel.
98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by dubkatz:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...
I had to tear the other side apart and knock it out with a center punch.
There is a small pass through hole in the differential.
Just thinking, couldnt you drill a hole in the part that broke. Tap it and use one of those body punches to pop it out?
I know what a pain in the azz it is to pull an axel.
Pulling the other side took maybe 15 minutes.
It is a simple job.
Pop the tie rod, end link and ball joint. Then hit the 2 nuts for the carrier bearing. Pull the suspension off the ball joint and let it hang. Pull the intermediate shaft out far enough to let it clear.
Drilling into a piece of billet steel (even non chromium) and in that tight space would be a major PITA. Not to mention the metal shavings might drop into the transmission.
Then you still have to figure out a way to get a slide hammer to attach to the piece and when you do hope it doesn't break the attachment!
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Greg, they say if you don't break every once in a while, you're not trying hard enough. Congrats on those new times, and keep on trying hard! You're almost fast enough to hang with my new combination slated for next spring... 
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
So, they apparently use an oversized inner tripod? Does that even help? I know of only BurritaSVT destroying these, but once again, that goes back to the shock coefficient Stazi was mentioning. . .sounds like no one could put slicks with 400+hp without destroying these axles. . . I'll go to the track with Tom when he's back to see if they can handle it, but I'm a bit leary. . .sounds like I'd have to baby the frist two gears and then play catch up on 3rd and 4th. . .
Oh, does that sound fun!
If the two of us get together at a texas track here.....
I have plans too! I need to get some exhaust work done AND make up a new 70mm TB when I get back because I seem to have lost my old one .... 
Lets make sure we do at least the first couple of runs on street gas so you don't go and blow me out of the water.
I'll try to get that crap done in the first 2-3 weeks of getting back so we won't have to wait long. Then I can see what happens just from some wider stock tires and exhaust/intake improvements.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 431
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Posts: 431 |
 yeah i know the feeling and mine was on street tires.........lol
99 SVT #198 blk/blue
Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts
T3/T4 fully built 3.0
ported heads
water injec./intercooled
13.2 @ 107 mph
clifford alarm and turbo timer
koni struts H&R springs
intercooler for sale
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by BurritaSVT:
yeah i know the feeling and mine was on street tires.........lol
Interesting.
I see you broke your's on the other end...
Did you get a lot of wheel hop???
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6 |
I just read the whole things - Congrats on the passes Demon... Have you looked into tuning your suspension a bit more? You can drop alot of rotating mass in the rear and lessen rolling resitants (sp?) by using some narrow rear tires and skinny drag rubber like Moroso, M&H or M/T front runner tires. It drops alot of unsprung weight and gives a decent boost in trap speed. Also if you have balanced out the front suspension a bit and kill some chassis squat in the rear, you can cut some 1.9 and 1.8 60ft times on drag radials. You also might consider switching to M&H or Mickey Thompson winkle-wall radials. They should dampen alot of wheel hop your getting now, when the side walls flex to take up some of the shock load. BFG and Nitto DR's don't flex at all in the sidewalls. Check them out there - http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.html
A.Thomas - Current Project:
1995 Plymouth Neon (Magnum swap, ICEMAN Intake, 56MM TB, OEM Magnum header, Magnaflow muffler)
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by Anthony Thomas:
1. Congrats on the passes Demon...
2. Have you looked into tuning your suspension a bit more?
3. You can drop alot of rotating mass in the rear and lessen rolling resitants (sp?) by using some narrow rear tires and skinny drag rubber like Moroso, M&H or M/T front runner tires.
4. It drops alot of unsprung weight and gives a decent boost in trap speed.
5. Also if you have balanced out the front suspension a bit and kill some chassis squat in the rear, you can cut some 1.9 and 1.8 60ft times on drag radials.
6. You also might consider switching to M&H or Mickey Thompson winkle-wall radials. They should dampen alot of wheel hop your getting now, when the side walls flex to take up some of the shock load. BFG and Nitto DR's don't flex at all in the sidewalls.
1. Thank you 
2. It is tuned. FOR Autocross and road racing. Just drag racing is irrelevant really. Well definitely in a FWD car!
3. See answer 2. A big waste of money IMO and definitely for my setup.
4. That's not as big deal in acceleration because it's not the drive wheels or causing extra drag because they are on the front. It does slightly lower rolling resistance. I ran with my rears at 42-44 psi to help achieve some of that same effect (i.e. riding on just the middle of the tire) and that's free. 
5. I have No lift or dive. I have H&R's with Bilsteins! 
6. Maybe for someone that wants to truly drag racing their heavy FWD touring platform. Slicks have a lot more rolling resistance so you need to seriously up the power level to over come that loss on the top end.
I know sub 2.0's are out there on DR's if the axles could hold it.
Heck even on the same axles if you slip the clutch a lot more. Letting the clutch take the initial brunt (more then just a simple slip too!  ) should be good for sub 2.0's with the proper setup and power to weight.
My axle did not just "instantly" break. I slipped the clutch (apparently not enough ) and the car jumped forward and only when I rolled to full throttle did the axle twist. You can see the twist marks in the metal and then it just fractured from that point.
So slicks are at the bottom of the list after spending a grand or so on Stage 3+ axles. IMO money not worth it unless you jut had it to burn or had to have the FWD launching ability!
For those power mongers; with axles that held one would surely be the quickest car out there.
It's been proven it doesn't take monster power to be the quickest but just very good power to weight combined with better driving and traction.
I've never liked FWD and I like it less more and more. 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,387
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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I would love to see one of us install a set of radius arms. Honda people swear by them, and I think we would benefit more.
Looks like my car might just be the mule.
98 3.0 svt: Sold
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Hard-core CEG'er
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the ONLY advantage the atx has is during launches
when i had the atx I pulled a 2.2x 60' time, on bald snow tires, that will never happen w/ a mtx
with teh atx i launched by holding the gas and brakes and teh torque converter would stall at 3500 rpm
doing this it also pre-loads the drivetrain instead of an all-at-once shock like you get by dumping the clutch
btw my 2.2x 60" time the converter was only stalling about 3000 cause taht was after it was kinda messed up
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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