Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Suggestions?

About 1 1/2 months ago, I did a post about my car not starting. Here is what happened. I was driving, came to a red light, car turns off. I restart it with no problem but as soon as I take my foot of the gas it turns off again. Try several times to restart with no result the finally again I get it to start and I pull into a parking lot and as soon as I get in the lot, car turns off again. Never got it to start again after that.

Anyways, I take it to my mechanic, he checked my car out for about a week and comes back to me that he thinks its an electrical problem and recommends I take it to someone that specializes in electrical. I finally took my car to another shop 2 1/2 weeks ago, I would check in with them every few days in the first week and they would always tell me "We're still looking for the problem" Then one day I call them and they tell me that they think there is a short in a wire somewhere but that they need to find it. That was all I heard from them for the second week. This past Monday they call me and tell me "We can't pinpoint the problem and that they were going to take it to one of there other shops they have. Finally today they call me and tell me that they think the problem is the main computer but they can't be 100% sure and that a new computer will run me about $200!

What could have messed up my computer? Are the correct?
Someone please help me!

Maybe the wiring harness recall is needed?

Ditch these mechanics as they clearly suck! There is a time and a place for the dealer and this is it.

These are the classic symptoms of an IAC (idle air control) valve that is stuck shut. If the car starts and runs if you hold the throttle slightly open then the IAC needs to be checked out.

So is it a wiring harness problem or an IAC problem?
Anybody else have an idea?

Talked to the mechanic again today. He says he changed the computer and now he can get codes out of it. One of the codes he says he gets is the "Key" code. He says the key I gave him is not programmed according to the system.

Is he telling me the truth? Is this a real code he can get?

I am fairly sure the PATS key memory is programmed into the car's EEC computer, which is the one the mechanic probably changed. That would explain the key code. If that's true, the car won't even crank, just light up the red LED on the dash, if you try to start it. I got a key cut, no start until I programmed it. The original working key was needed, I am unsure what you do if the EEC is changed. Hopefully, the mechanic knows.(Dealer?)

The weird part about this is that the mechanic says he did get it to crank and according to him he changed the EEC?

He asked me for my spare key because the one I left with him originally, he says was not programmed.

I guess i'll wait to hear from him today.

Not sure how, but my mechanic says he got my car started but not with my key. At least it starts now. Anyways back to the key. Is he able to program the key? He replaced my EEC because he says it was toast but now my keys don't work with the new EEC. What happens in this situation?

I have no idea how he got the car started without programmed keys. If both of your keys do not work (turn on but no start, red LED comes on), the PATS system needs reprogramming by the dealer or a locksmith, unless someone else comes up with an idea! This topic I found on google may give you some information:

http://www.f150online.com/forums/archive/topic/81986-1.html

Good luck, I hope you get that fixed soon and at a reasonable cost...