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if you ran a small turbo off each manifold(header) would it be worth it. it would be more efficent. i got all winter. i will have the motor out of the car anyway. I also need to find rather small and cheap turbo. any one know of some i can take from another car. i know i will have to do some custom fabing. that is no problem.
*hint* i hope a 3.0L can take a twin turbo.
Michigan CEG BenTonEdge@aol.com **DEAD** Dec26 01. 96 2.5 Gl dessert violet. mystery mod, gutted cat. no res. craked secondaries. custom air box. And a good old CEL Oh you want to know
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the real problem for a TT in a 'tour is packaging it all.
drop me a line, and I would be glad to give you a hand designing a system.
It's all about balance.
bcphillips@peoplepc.com
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Using a twin turbo setup is not more efficient than a single larger turbo. You need to run the 2 smaller turbos at a higher psi to make the same power than the larger single turbo, which will create much more heat, hence lower effieciency. Looking at the Supra TT, many owners switch to the single turbo kit, since they can produce over 1000hp easily, whereas the twin turbo upgrade kits are limited, and require even more work.
Twin turbo set-ups are never better. Many people say lag on a single larger turbo would be too much, but it's not. You'll be using twin 16g's, or a single T3, T3s60, or T3/t4 hybrid, and they don't have alot of lag. I know that the T3 S 60 reaches max boost around 3000RPM...even a tad lower, especially if you have airflow increasing mods, like P&P heads, intake manifolds, etc. 2 sounds cooler, but 1 is better, also trying to fit 2 in thsi car will be tough. Go find a nice T3, port it out to a t4, and you got yourself a hybrid..., and it's not that expensive.
Good luck either way. If you do a turbo on the 3.0L, use the 3.0L heads since it uses larger valves, and will have lower compression ratio than if you use the 2.5L heads. I believe if you dome the 3.0L pistons, you can lower compression even more, which will allow you to run even more boost.
Again, good luck, have fun...
1995 Probe GT ATX TOO MANY MODS 1999 Cougar V6 MTX Stage 1: (Basic Mods)B&M STS, Bassani Exhaust, KKM intake w/ weapon R pipe, ProFlow 75mm MAF w/optimiser, YoDude Y-pipe w/hi flow cat, SVT TB, SVT Upper IM, OMP FSTB,AF gauge, Aerogear fiberglass hood (completed) Stage 2: (Top End Work) 19-24lb injectors, P&P heads w larger valves and HPC coated, P&P and port matched lower intake manifold also HPC coated, custom ground cams, Ford Racing 9mm wires, Bosch +4 plugs, Custom burned PAC or Diablo chip (will dyno with both), Apexi SAFC (In Progress) Stage 3: (Transmission) Quaife LSD, CM stage 3 Clutch, Fidanza flywheel (In progress) Stage 4: (Suspension)Koni adjustibles, H&R springs, Progress 21mm rear anti sway bar (Installing on Tues) Current dyno: 172.9 whp with just bolt ons and stock exhaust manifolds (not gutted), oh, and bad wires  ...
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I think you might want to wait and see what Chris's kit will do.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the main reason to getting a TT setup was to get rid of turbo lag.
Once Chris's system comes out, I think you'll see that turbo lag really won't be a concern...
John
'98 SVT - modded -15.01@91.8 '95 Suzuki GS500E -faster than the above ---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
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CV6MTX, twin turbo is NEVER better? wow that is an awfully broad statement. It really all depends on the particular application and the efficiency maps of the turbo units being considered, and the desired performance from the setup. You are right that "lag" from a single turbo is not always as bad as many believe that it would be, but the boost threshold is often higher on a single than a twin, making power delivery even less linear, and therefore, less street friendly. I just think you have made far too broad of a statement for it to be valid; the particular application, and hardware considered is key to the characteristics of a system. oh, one question, in a generic situation, why would a twin have to run a higher boost pressure to make the same power as a single? the power of an engine is only determined by the amount of air and fuel combusted (and how efficiently, but that isn't a concern here) minus the parasitic losses through the drivetrain, and since the turbos are driven through the latent heat and pressure in the exhaust flow, which would be wasted through the exhaust anyway, what makes a twin have to run at a higher psi? there is no reason excepting that the twins would have to be horribly undersized, and running in a system with far too many parasitic losses. I'm really not trying to be argumentative  I just love discussing this stuff 
It's all about balance.
bcphillips@peoplepc.com
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Master P
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Once upon a time, Albert Mirko was working on a twin turbo setup for the Contour. Not sure if he ever got it working, but the price tag was along the lines of $15,000.
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Boost has nothing to do with RPM. It is dependent on the volume of exhaust gases that are spinning the turbine, and how much air is getting sucked/pushed into the intake.
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Originally posted by Rara: oh, one question, in a generic situation, why would a twin have to run a higher boost pressure to make the same power as a single? I'm really not trying to be argumentative  I just love discussing this stuff  [/QB] It depends on where you take the boost measurement and the comparitive sizes of the plumbing. One could run 35psi thru a straw, but what does that get you? (Pulling out the equation book..) Take for example: (1) 4" diameter pipe can flow 2 x the amount of air that (2) 2" diameters can at a given pressure (staying in the laminar flow). Therefore, in order for it move as much air as a larger turbo, the smaller one would have to develop more psi (move the air faster), unless as stated below. But, (2) 3" pipes can flow about 12% more air than a single 4" pipe. In this case, the smaller turbos can run at a lower psi and make the same air as a larger turbo. So, to answer the question. Yes and no. It depends on the geometry of the pipes as to how much psi the turbo needs to develop to achieve a certain amount of air flow. This was the "simplistic approach." There are a lot of things that can change, as to the location of the psi measurement to the whether you want the engine to be "presurized" or have an ample supply of air. It all has to do with volume and air flow.
Greg Litterick 98 E0 T-Red #613
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yes, a very broad statement...I wonder what porsche would think of that??
1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Born on 12/3/98
KKM Intake Removed Resonator 35% Window Tint all around Tinted Tail Lights ElKy Mesh Grilles HID
Dyno'ed at 175.3HP/155.5TQ
"How much must I live through just to get away..."
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I agree with Rara totally. Ben Timm, if you want to setup twin turbos I would suggest two Garret T-25's from a couple of 2nd Gen. DSM's. You'd be able to buy them for around $150 each from a couple of DSM'ers who have upgraded to 16G's or larger. They would spool very quickly and provide you with enough boost to 7000rpm, seeing as one is rated for 5500rpm @ max cfm on a 2 litre. I too would LOVE to help you design this system. I think Rara and I could come up with something crazy. The trickiest thing would be oil feed and return lines and the exhaust work.
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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