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The difference for the 2 part numbers is due to the fact that in 2001, Ford changed the 2.5 ... increased CR and decreased displacement by close to 50cc ... actually a 2.49L now wink. These two changes negate eachother for HP/TQ increase, but are probably what accounts for the different damper numbers. Don't hold me to that ... just a guess.


Best Regards,

Trevor Cole

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Hrmm.. classic...

Ill tell a quick funny story to lighten things up.. NOT taking a side.

My GF's dad is a GM engineer... masters from Purdue yadda yadda yadda... he patented the elec throttle in the yet to be released new corvette.... blah blah won the top GM design award for it two years ago yadda yadda yadda....

Hes on his way down to pick her up from Purdue(like father like daughter...) and gets a flat in his company Silverado... the dude couldnt figure out how to drop the spare tire from the hanger... He actually gave up and called the GM company car asistence number! Turns out.... the directions in the owners manual are backwards... He could not pull himself "out of the box" enough to figure out how to drop the spare...


This happened two months or so AFTER I helped a buddie change a tire on HIS Silverado... he couldnt get the tire down either. I didnt read the manual... im not a book guy. I simply assembled the parts and droped the tire.

Does that make me smarter then him? No. He knows alot more then I do. Its all in how you apply what you know. He knows alot... but has trouble applying it to the real... i know little.. but can fly by the seat of my pants preaty damn good...

I dunno.. just thought it was funny.. a decorated GM engineer who can change a tire...

Remember the post a few days ago by i think Autoeng<-nick where he blew up at puckpuck about his "presure switch" because he failed to realize he was talking about a physical contact rocker switch not an atmospheric pressure sensor.... he wasnt wrong.. im sure his response was 100% correct had it been what he thaught.... he just let his books cloud his common sense... its not a fualt... its just how it works! Its an age old debate... the booksmart vs. the experienced.

Oh.. and im sorry but i dont think computer programing should have the word "engineer" associated with it unless you work on hardware. Like writing cmos and roms and the like... i never liked that term SW engineer... you code... you are a programer... that sounds good enough. I install glass... Im not a vertical glazing engineer.. even if i did have a degree in it... hehe... relax... we need each other. Sometimes the engineers make the techs look dumb... and somtimes the techs embaress the engineers! The both have to remember to respect each other for that. If everyone just remembered that they DONT know everything even about the subject they expert in.... well.........

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Well, there are Engineers and there are "Engineers". Terry is an Mechanical Engineer (guessing) and I am a "Network Engineer". Whether you get the quotes or not depends on the knowledge you possess and the techniques you use. Complex math with goofy little symbols mean your are an Engineer (or a loon laugh ). Sitting around pretending you know what's going on and doing so in a belligerent manner so people are unwilling to question you, well then, you get the quotes.

Scott
"Network Engineer" grr!! mad


Scott
96 SE, MTX, BAT 22mm rear anti-sway bar, BAT springs and Spax struts
96 Caprice, 9C1
Rayon is made of wood!!!
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What makes me bummed about the forums is when the s/n ratio gets so high over such nonsense.

I came to this thread because I am trying to not let my 2.5L die from oil starvation and I get referred to this thread, which is all great info, but gets squelched out by a bunch of bickering over damaged egos and ill-made insults. Can't ppl just talk about cars and forget about all the "my kung fu is better than your kung fu" crap?

Sometimes its better to just let things slide by...if someone is being a lam3r, let them run with it...words are like rope in that sometimes if you allow people to gather enough, they'll have just enough to hang themselves laugh


Andrew
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Here is some elaboration from another thread - forgive the double post.

The "crank whip" issue was talked about by Terry & Judge for some time but I think few were listening. Judge was involved in figuring out the harmonics problem & developing the "dual mode damper" to solve the problem. It was implimented on Cougar & new Mondeo but as Contour was about to be discontinued... well you can draw your own conclusion. I am now investigating what part(s) to buy to make the conversion. But, I went to the Cougar forum and found that NOBODY had heard of spun bearings their except some guy who did a bunch of stupid stuff to his car. So, IMHO the problem was sucessfully proven fixed.

As far as oil starvation, I think it may occasionaly happen on the street but I believe that low oil level contributed to several of those cases were hard cornering was involved. I talked to 4 different Duratec racers (Bondurant, Mirko, Reinke, Capaldi) during my "investigation" of oil starvation and all agreed it happened on the track BUT most seemed surprised it could happen on the street. The Accusump worked for all, although partial benefit was reported for a baffeled pan (it reduced but did not eliminate oil pressure flux @ high g load). Interestingly, (and I should have paid more attention to this), 2 of these racers said oil starvation lead to loss of lifter pressure as the first symptom NOT BEARING FAILURE. Lifters fell off. And this was also described in the C&D article "night of the Iguana" 1996, where they were testing prototype SVT Contours under racing conditions - they lost oil pressure to hydrolic lifters! I should note that one racer did report bearing failure as a result of oil starvation (or so he thought). So, this is why I believe that oil starvation may not be the big deal I thought it was.

And as far as oil filters - I investigated that too (hard to believe I spent so much tiome figuring out this engine failure problem)....The OEM is tested to 3 GPM, & most filters including Mobil One, Purolator, etc are only tested to 3-4 GPM. Only a few racing filters are tested higher & the only one that has a Duratec application is K&N - tested to 11 GPM IIRC. Is this important? well, I dont know for sure because I never could get Duratec oil pump flow specs. BUT a FAQ on SHOtimes webpage talked about this issue in the V6 SHO ( a similar high RPM v6, recall that most US engines cant rev to 7 K RPM - only the Duratec & Cobra 4.6). That SHO pump is rated at like 9 GPM at 7000 RPM & the Ford OEM filter, like ours is only tested to 3 GPM. The OEM filter rep when questioned said something like it may not be a bad idea to have a better flowing filter. Raised a few eyebrows. So, this seems a POTENTIAL reason for occasional high RPM oil starvation but NOT PROVEN.

So to summerize again.
1)Strongly consider Cougar crank damper if it turns out to fit OK (it should)
2)Check oil often & keep full or even slightly over (say 6.0 q) Synthetics provide best viscosity indexes (which correlates with the thickness of the oil film on the bearings) Amsoil BTW has highest VI, though Mobil One is good.
3)K&N filter not a bad idea if you can afford a few extra bucks.

Comments invited, useless bickering is not.
Happy motoring! laugh


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760)
Stock SVT Duratec V6 with:
Intake- K&N filter/75mm MAF meter
Exhaust- MSDS Y-pipe/Bassani catback
Durability-Ford "dual mode" damper, Mobil 1/K&N oil filter
179.2 FWHP at 6900 RPM
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Here's what I found out at my local Ford parts dept. All Cougar and Contour dampers change over to p/n F7RZ 6316 AA. Obviously, this is a 1997 Contour p/n. Is this the RIGHT damper? I don't know-maybe those in the know could pipe in right about now.


Technical Director/Co-Owner Performance Fords-check out our new throttle body service
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Yes Scott, that's precisely correct. Price-wise here in the Great White North list for this piece is $100 CDN, trade $79 CDN. I figured that was about right, per your posting.


Technical Director/Co-Owner Performance Fords-check out our new throttle body service
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Okay, after all this fighting, I have one question. How do I prevent all this crap from happening on my car, a 99 SE Sport 6cyl? Does anyone know the part number to get the dual mode dampener, which seems to me to be the way to help my engine from falling into an early death cause I rev it up pretty high? Sorry guys, but im pretty much dumb when it comes to this in depth knowledge of engines. Thanks for the help anyways!


"My family hauler can kick your family hauler's @SS!"
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That's precisely WHY I posted the Ford p/n's I was given at the dealer. Once we know for sure, we can all rest easy (after the install)!


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Just to be picky... wink

The K&N HP-2010 is rated ~14GPM & over 92% efficiency...

Matter of fact in a a couple weeks I will have hard filtering facts to compare versus the Motorcraft FL-820S (pure-one cartridge)


2000 SVT #674 - Check it out!

Whoever coined the phrase; "If it ain't broke; don't fix it" ~ Just doesn't get it...
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